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Refer to the diagram hottscennessey posted. The leak you are describing is in the area where the big banjo fitting attaches with the bolt fitting at the back top of the head correct? If you are absolutely sure the hose clamps are tight, the fitting is likely bad. These have a tendency to...

Wow...that's truly a bummer. :eek2: Hope you get everything back man!

The placebo effect...makes ya feel good and you can brag to your buddies "my spark plugs are even indexed" :biglaugh:

I want one...and I don't back out ;)

The TRSM shows the right way to do it...don't take shortcuts here. You are asking for rod knock down the line if you do. Measure and replace with the bearing that gives you the tightest fit within the spec. To my knowledge, Clevite's only come in a couple of sizes for the 7M and are sized...

Check the valve cover gaskets 1st...if there is oil in the spark plug wells, that's the cause. The valve covers can leak anywhere...can make a real mess around the sides and back of the motor too. Also, the cam seals can leak oil down the front of the motor behind the timing belt covers...it...

I do believe you are correct Sir! :icon_bigg

LMAO :rofl:

650 is normal idle...900 with the AC on.

Heehee...and it's not very hot in Baghdad during the summer either ;)

Yeah - pretty sure. I installed it before I replaced my downpipe several years ago (one of my 1st upgrades) and had to pull the piping to the CAT. Had to replace a couple of stock rubber hangers with the donut type to get it to work. I'm starting to think Blitz may have some quality control...

Don't get me wrong...I really like my FAL fans too :) Really cleans up the front of the motor. But, it's a pricey upgrade and it needs to be done right with a controller...otherwise you risk a failure and overheat of the engine. As we all know, the 7M does not like an overheat ;) I tend to...

One other thing...I've never used a Titan before either, but I hear they have a rivet that can interfere with the seal. The Cometic has a similar rivet; it is on the block/head mating surfaces of the gasket and requires removal. Do you remember if there was one on your Titan MHG? If so, that...

They should be able to. Unless the journals are really out, a good polish should suffice. The journals have a hardened surface that is not very deep...taking much material off will be counter productive. IMO, it's better to match bearing thickness to each rod. A good balance wouldn't...

Here's a pic of the sensor cluster on the water neck & thermo housing: Should get you started...the TRSM has a resistance test for the switch, plus more here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/be/BE_041.html

Read my mind ;) I've got a Blitz and it is in fact about an inch short.

Have you upgraded your radiator? If not, I'd stick with the stock fan set-up. I've got FAL dual fans with an FAL variable speed controller on a CSF radiator...no problems at all, even in Phoenix AZ where it hits 43 deg C on a regular basis in the summer. The reason it works for me (IMHO)...

Nicely done...looks good! :bigthumb:

Ok...that's good (if you can call a spun rod good ;) ). I'd still have it checked for roundness like MDC suggested. FYI...Toyota bearing come in various thickness. You can measure your clearances and get the proper bearing as close to min spec as possible...even if different for each rod...

What did the bearing look like? Was it in pieces?