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It even had all 4 wheels...LOL

Sounds like your CPS might be off one tooth. Confirm you checked the timing with the diag block jumpered.

I've heard of them...same "crack problem" for a guy on the other forum. Took him forever to get it right and he only lived a couple of hours away from the company. :3d_frown:

Very similar to Toyman here..if fact, almost identical except for a 3000 rpm stall converter (built by IPT). Haven't had a manual transmission equipped car beat me yet...ran an 11.85 in the 1/4. We'll see what the AEM box will do here in a few weeks ;)

Betcha it's the hose coming out of the turbo to the hard pipe to the intercooler...it's hard to see and a PITA to get to. Check the fender pipe too...that's another common location for a leak.

Just measured the 3000 pipe and throttle body inlet...both are 2.75" as hottscennessey said. Get a 3-4 ply silicone and 2 T-Clamps...much better and you're still out for a lot less than $50!

It does from the channels inside the block from the head...it's a nominal amount. The oil inside the lines to the cooler and the cooler itself usually stays put.

Do you have a hardpipe set-up? The coupling at the turbo is subject to a lot of heat and tends to be one of the 1st to crack.

Likely the knock sensors need a good ground...search for the "knock sensor rewire". Shaeff makes a kit...PM him.

Yep - sounds like you popped a hose somewhere from the compressor, to the intercooler, to the 3000 pipe....that's exactly what it will do.

Yep - that will do it. Glad it was so simple :) And you're welcome!

Code 11 = Momentary interruption in power supply to ECU. It refers to the ign switch circuit, ign switch, main relay circuit, main relay, and the ECU itself. Pull the EFI fuse again to clear...see if it goes away.

Could be a bad ground or the sensor is going bad.

Wow...that's weird. I just went out to the garage and looked on my old motor, there is a freeze plug below the EGR cooler. You couldn't tell were it was coming from?

Yep - I'd have them do all of the exhaust studs. Never have to worry about it again.

To the metal hardline that goes around the block...it's the heater return line.

The ARP bolt spec for an aluminum head (like a Supra's) is 75 ft/lbs. w/ moly...more is NOT better. I highly recommend chasing the bolt holes to get rid of any burrs/debris for an accurate torque reading when you install the bolts.

136,000 on my '89...new motor tho :naughty:

Ohhh...didn't think of that. Thanks!

IJ - Do you happen to have a pic? I want to relocate my cannister and put an oil catch can in the stock cannister location.