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The fuel pressure up VSV is active only during hot starts. It opens the FPR vacuum port to atmosphere for 60-90 seconds after the start...increasing fuel pressure to clear any vapor. It helps to smooth idle for a few minutes. After appx 60-90 seconds the FPR port is reconnected to the intake...

This is from the HKS site: "HKS metal head gaskets are engineered to resist severe levels of heat that are generated by high-horsepower and high-boost applications. All HKS head gaskets are constructed with multiple layers of steel and coated with a special fluorine rubber to provide...

It's fine with the rivets removed...just make sure it's on the two index pins on the block for proper alignment. Assuming the MHG is new, you really don't want to spray it with anything. In fact, most MHG makers advise against it. New MHG's are usually coated with a thin layer of vitron...

Not off the top of my head...eBay? You want the S-AFC II. Do a search here, there's lots of info.

Different story...it works very well with our ECU's :biglaugh:

Check it very carefully...this is easy to do incorrectly. From what I've read it's a ECU problem...our ECU does not "understand" the outputs of the V-AFC.

LOL...this is a classic! Mtoxracerfss - most of the guys were going on your 1st post..."rebuilt the bottom end". That usually means new rings at a minimum...you didn't tell us the pistons were never removed till post #17. So off we go on breaking in rings. Also, choice of words...Figgie...

Read this: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ And this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.html And this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#n1515 This will keep you amused for a while ;)

:withstupi Yep!

The bearings are not what you need to worry about...it's the rings seating correctly in the cylinders. Change it to a straight 30W Valvoline and run it to flush the synthetic...change it again (and filter) to the 30W. Hopefully the rings will seat. After about a 1000 miles, you can go to...

Soak it with WD40 over night and use a plastic scraper...break cleaner on the hard areas. Do not use anything that will scratch the head or block and don't use a scotchbright pad...unless, that is, you are going to deck both ;) White would be nasty in a month...I used hi-temp engine...

Ok...take a look at this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_103.html It appears the gap between the throttle stop screw and lever is too large. You should have continuity between IDL - E2 with the gap at .019 (or less)...you should not have continuity with the gap at .035...

Yeah man...$$$ and the wife always seem to cramp my style on the car thing :3d_frown: LOL! BTW...a friend of mine and myself are in the planning stages of dropping a turbo 7M into '90 Cressida. A lot of custom work routing pipes, etc...we're probably going to keep it mostly a stock motor...

Do it! Put a 7M-GTE in the Cressida and make it a kick ass sleeper :naughty:

The upper hose will have a lot of pressure on it when the engine heats up and the thermostat releases. Is there any chance the radiator could be blocked up?

Cause your bird flew the coop! LOL...<jk>

Those are the std sizes...check out this link: http://www.cometic.com/catalogs/AutoCat04.pdf Page 2 is the custom order form...took mine about a week :icon_bigg I had the machine shop order it..I knew the guy and I got the "dealer" cost.

Cometic will custom make a gasket...add together the total material removed from both the block and head, add to 1.0mm and you've got the thickness. Specify a 83.5mm dia bore and you're good to go ;)