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Thank you very much JJ...it gives me a plan to act on. I was in Boston when I asked and now in Seattle...I'll take a look when I get home. Perhaps a dumb question, but I thought the voltage regulator was internal to the alternator...is that correct? SH - I really wasn't trying to jack your...

That is correct...the light failure indicator. The last time these 3 came on together, my alternator was dead. Replaced the alternator and the connector to the wiring harness. The alternator is charging the battery fine and all other indications for the charging system is normal.

The same 3 as Suprahero/MKIII Vixen...battery, brake & tail light and the same year...'89 Turbo. Thought it might be a bad alternator...it tested good. New battery & terminals too.

Put mine in the same place on top of the steering column...double sided velcro tape worked good for me. Lets you remove the PLX if you have to work on the cluster, etc.

I've kinda got the same problem, except all 3 lights stay on very dim...can't see them in daylight, only at night. Alternator and battery are good...good grounds and battery terminal connections too. Had a Toyota tech tell me about the diodes in the guage cluster I mentioned earlier, but...

And an O/D Light across the bottom ;)

Those are the grounds he's talking about. Check your CPS wiring for cracks/breaks around the connector. Did you confirm the CPS is installed correctly?

If I'm not mistaken, there's a couple of diodes on the back of the dash cluster that's wired to these lights. Could be going bad.

Good to see you on here :icon_bigg BTW...IJ is one of the really old school guys here. Take a look at his build thread if you want to see a monster 7M motor (grab a beer...you'll be a while).

Yep...got one for my '89 re-build. Zero problems with the maddening Supra electrical issues.

Sell it on eBay...the HP gains are min and unless your motor is completely balanced (crank, rods, pistons) from a re-build, you risk damage from harmonic vibration. The stock pulley is actually a dampener.

Ditch the light weight crank pulley and use the $$$ for fuel upgrades. 550's, AFPR, walbro pump, Lex AFM to balance...or go w/ a MAFT Pro in lew of the Lex.

You blocked off a bunch of vac lines?!?! Without knowing what they do...and you're wondering why your motor runs like crap. Did you even bother to read the TRSM before you did all this, or did you go off what your "buddy" told you...geez! - Those are VSV's...one controls high temp fuel line...

Most machine shops have a steam type parts washer...cleans the head up really well. Should work on the intercooler too...you could hit it with a brush on paint remover 1st, then get it cleaned. Rinse the inside out with gasoline to remove any oil build up. Edit: if you use paint remover...

I used a Craftsman...3/8" drive w/ a 1/2" drive adapter for my torque wrench.

Neither is bad...just that, tomorrow you'll find your engine in a molten pool of metal. JK... ;) Tightening the bolts in order is what's important...no biggie When you put the head back on, you'll have to turn the cam to tighten the bolts. So, you will have to set the #1 cylinder at...

Very good...love it when it's simple :biglaugh:

Yeah - it's a PITA to get to as well. You will likely have to remove the EGR valve to get to where it connects to the hard line coming from around the block. You won't have to remove the head though.

The only other line is the heater return on the drivers side...it's the hose that goes down from the firewall.

Remove it...blow through it...you'll know real quick.