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No problem Jon. Here, I'll bore you with the details: Spring contacts for fuses (and many other things) are "turned" out. You know, wider where you insert the fuse. This isn't so you can make it easier to install. It's so the narrow part (the part that makes contact with the blade and handles...

Malfunction Indicator Lamp....The correct name for what you less technical types refer to as the CEL ;)

It is, but at least on the Karman you can lift a wire. You might be able to do that on the MAF. It's a hotwire MAF right? Sounds like you may be onto something yourself. It just took a little prodding to get you thinking ;)

Yeah but there has to be a root cause. Closed loop boost? That's odd. At WOT the ECU is much more dependent on things because well, it's open loop. I'd check fuel pressure, coolant temp sensor, TPS, and airflow. A month's a long time though. I'm assuming no codes. Piggyback??

I dunno. Could be sensor or fuel pressure drift. If you're talking about WOT that's one thing but if you mean during cruise that's a completely different situation. Which is it?

LMAO. Thanx....it's not been a good day ;)

The slip rings should be smooth. If not they'll significantly reduce the service life of the new brushes. Either turn them or replace the alternator.

;)

One who understands ampacity and the limitations of spring contacts. And the item in question isn't a fuse. It's a fusible link. There are significant differences between the two.

Someone might. It only does it when you let off the throttle? What color is the smoke? Disconnect the idle up PS valve if it has one and check the PCV system.

It's science...but it works like magic ;)

Oil separators work on one of three principles: 1) Inertial 2) Tortuous Path/Cyclonic and 3) Coalescing. Putting steel wool in (I've used nylon kitchen scrubbers) makes for better coalescing. It's an old trick known by old guys ;)

I was going to point that out but I figured he was going with a turbo ECU. If not I'm glad I stayed out of this ;)

Well, I think you'll find the O2 sensor is not the problem. Something is shifting the loop rich. Not all that uncommon. Could be a bad AFM, coolant temp sensor, etc.

Might want to hook the stock O2 back up again too. I dunno what those WB jobbies put out for NB signals. I've said time and again I don't think using a WB for AF compensation is a good idea.

Sigh....read the post. He's complaining of richness under cruise. The entire computerized EFI system, the whole shebang, is specifically designed to keep the mixture tightly controlled to stoichiometeric under those conditions. Doward: Stock is good. They're easier to fix that way ;)

That'll give you a digitized O2 signal which is not what you want. Measure the raw O2 signal on the diag connector between OX and battery negative. If it looks good you then should measure at the ECU itself. You've already established the mixture is rich though so focus on the reason why it and...

Go for it. Btw, always check cross counting off idle. 2500 rpm is good. You want a minimum of 8 sweeps in 10 seconds with an average sensor voltage around 450 mv. That'll give you stoichiometeric. Tuning for WOT mixtures are, of course, a different story.

Yeah, there ya go. Vf is subtracting fuel and the sensor is still cross counting. That's why no codes. It's back to why you're rich. You ought to remove the J tube first and go from there. You may need to tweak the fuel pressure but remove the restriction first. That said there are other things...

Normal? Good grief... Doward: The screw on a Karman AFM should have very little effect on mixture. Check the Vf and sensor swings.