Search results

Not to slam mechanics but many are not as electrically inclined as they should be. Special service tools like the checker are designed to both overcome that and to speed things up. The checker does make things easy but as a EE I can do pretty much anything the checker can do with normal test...

Ah ok, I see. It should work to display Vf then. Try measuring Vf at the diag block (using your DMM) with the WB user input disconnected and then connected. If it pulls Vf down when you connect it something is wrong inside the WB controller. The propane trick will give you a pretty good idea...

Doward, you need to answer my questions. After all, I'm trying to help you by answering yours ;) Yes, Vf is active at idle. All I can assume is the WB simulation signal is still wrong even though you have it connected properly. Or maybe the WB itself is bad and thus the sumulation signal is...

I see there is one on ebay ending soon: http://tinyurl.com/rkvwl Mine may be also up for sale in the near future. These are pretty rare (and expensive) items and the TCCS book he's selling with it is very good. Just thought I'd let everyone know.

No, the Vf is simply a stepped voltage output. Even with a high impedance meter connected to it it still outputs. I'm a bit confused about what you're doing though. What "user input" on the WB of 0-5 volts are you talking about and what is it's function? CJ, I was talking about his AFs during...

Idle *speed* problems are usually not difficult to find. You have to approach them in a methodical way. I've been through it before. Search for some tips. Idle *quality* problems are a different story...

You'd be surprised to know all the monkey motion the ECU goes through when you start the car but the bottom line is (with a good battery and everything working right) it should start pretty much at the touch of the key in most cases.

Of the top of my head all those codes are AFM related and likely caused by the bad connector. I agree 100% with shaeff but since the connector has already been busted I'd replace it anyway even if the AFM is working.

A little basic electronic theory for youa: LEDs are not lamps, they're diodes. As such current through them must be limited when they're connected across a power source. The good news is you can run them on any voltage you'd like as long as the current limiting resistor is sized properly. Most...

No, you're right old man ;) Most cars will pressurize the fuel system for a bit when the key is first turned on. It's done using a tacho-relay, often called an rpm relay. Rpm relays typically energize the fuel pump for a few seconds and then go back off. This priming function is built into the...

Yeah, we'll simply blame the scumbags over on SF ;) Couple of things puzzle me though. First, why no faulty O2 sensor code. Second, why a lack of power. Stoich is not best power mixture, it's lowest emissions mixture. Best power comes richer than that, about where you were running. Ah well...

50 lashes! O2 is an ECU input. Vf is an ECU output. There is no way it can process signals. You may have have toasted your WB simulator circutry but lets hope not. If it doesn't work when you try it use the NB for AF compensation and use the WB for monitoring after installing another bung. Imho...

Congrats on the thinking but you're not doing enough ;) Yes, Vf has 5 steps. You won't see them all unless you introduce a problem to drive it there. Pull off a vac line or add propane to the intake....it should go to O or 5 volts. Right again, the NB seems to make the ECU happy. That's why...

Yep, could be the TTS. More likely the CSI is gunked up though.

Yeah, wire it to the radio ;)

I'm focusing on idle right now Nick. But thanks for pointing that out ;)

Yeah, by doing what you're doing you're just spinning your wheels. It's a worthless test. How do you know what the AF is when the NB is in there? You don't. You're implying it from Vf and that's only marginal help. You the don't the adapter for sticking the WB up the tailpipe? If not what you...

So the WB is also running the ECU when it's installed? You don't see a problem with doing that? Lol, I give up ;)

I'm still confused...if you have only one port how are you reading AF ratios with the Bosch? You're WB signal to the ECU obviously isn't right. That's why the difference in Vf. You've still got a minor problem somewhere else too.

So it's not the CTS. Hook it back up and clear the code. I'm confused. You have the WB back in there and connected to the ECU? 14.2 is well within the accuracy of a lamba sensor so what's your beef? What is the AF at 2500 rpm?