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Then the odds are the pack is good. The same secondary winding handles both cylinders. Everything is in series (for lack of a better term) even though the head doesn't actually provide the return path.

Huh. Based on the code it should have been the first place you looked. I'm guessing you guys don't have an ignition scope. Would've pinpointed the problem right away. No offense but how can you operate as a "performance shop" without the same tools found in an average gas station repair bay?

Well, is the companion cylinder also dead? You can't check secondary resistance in these packs without special gear so all you can do is check the primary or swap a pack and see it the problem follows it. That said if you ran open circuited on the secondary it could've easily shorted. It's why I...

Lol...it doesn't get any better than that.

I'm not even gonna try. Besides, the TPS is easily tested. Jerry: The tailpipe is, as 3p correctly stated, slightly rich in both cases. The 15 mph test calculates out to a lambda of .979 or an A/F ratio of 14.39 while the 25 mph test comes out to .971 or 14.28 A/F. Just slightly rich. 3p's...

Lol, it sure is. Gotta give him some credit though...because he has a current AFM problem thread it means he searched. Found some good info too. Not likely I'd offer the same detail these days ;)

Privet Mr Y...kak dela? Ya govoru nemonoga, no ne ochen xorosho ;). Most Toyotas have been using 3/4-16 filter studs for a very long time. Any mount with such a stud will take a Toyota filter but there are better filters to be had. You can cross reference a Mann filter on their website...

Sounds to me like you're referring to the headlight washer switch. At least the location sounds correct. The switch is momentary and triggers the headlight cleaner relay located on the fender near the fuse box. The relay is an off delay type with about a 2 second hold. The same switch in my car...

Yeah I know but I wasn't going to call him on it. Obviously a passive LC network just from looking at the schematic. To the OP: As I said since the idle doesn't increase it appears the defogger switch isn't supplying the ground required to energize the relay coil or tell the ECU to idle up...

No asshole attitude intended. Seems they've pretty much stopped teaching science in most US schools. Another high school wash out huh? I noticed there are several here. Sad. Usually makes for a very tough life.

Looks like it might be for the headlight cleaner relay but I dunno on an N/A. I think it depends on the year too.

Lol, a little confused there? They stop teaching basic science in Nebraska did they?

At sea level the weight of the atmosphere (ATM) due to gravity is generally around 14.7 psi on a 59 F day. That means if you could balance a square inch of atmosphere about 60 miles tall on your palm it'd weigh that much. If you filled a tube with water and up-ended it in a dish the weight of...

300-325 until the light comes on. Mix of city and highway. Fwiw I run it down all the time. Been doing that since day one. Never a problem and none was expected. Same fuel filter and pump as came on the car 20 years ago.

Rational? You must have me confused with someone else ;) It'll turn up. Could be something as simple as a funky clutch switch. Whatever it is once it starts leaving you stuck somewhere you'll become motivated to hunt it down. Remember, machine problems never get better, they only get worse. I...

You could yank the starter, disassemble, and inspect. You can get parts for it at the dealer. If it were me the next time it does a no crank I'd hook a meter to the starter control line and see if it's active. Or you can hook it to the STA signal (same thing) at the ECU and leave the meter...

You didn't answer about the mirrors but in theory the idle should increase even if the relay is bad because the defogger idle up input to the ECU is on the control side of the circuit and not the power side. It implies the internal circuit in the defogger switch is bad or you have open wiring...

1) is there some electrical connection, sensor, control unit that would cause the system to have spark and fuel but no fire, that could also work one minute then not the next, then work again later? Well, connection and sensor-wise it goes like this: As long as you have CPS signals to the ECU...

Weez my man, I normally don't deal with those who exhibit anthropomorphism because I feel it's weird behavior but since you've always come across as an otherwise normal and decent guy.... Flooding is unlikely unless your injectors (including the CSI) are leaking so you may want to check for...

"Defogger amplifier"?