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Thanks Nick (jdub thanks you too ;)). I have so much stuff in my head sometimes I can't keep it all straight. Gettin' old I guess.

I prefer textured nitrile first and latex if I run out of nitrile. It's not about pretty hands, it's about poisons. For serious stuff I use textured kevlar gloves.

Well, there are only a limited number of failure modes. It's just a coil of wire after all. If it opened both plugs would be dead but since shorting reduces the number of turns one or both could still fire but the spark would be weaker or nonexistent on one side. Depends where the short occurred...

"Working fine" needs to be defined. Just because it starts the engine means squat. The only way to know a battery's true condition is a capacity/load test followed by a recovery test. I prefer the newer conductivity testers over the old carbon pile/resistor junk. Much less strain on the battery.

Yeah, that site has a lot of misinformation on it. Written by another guy who learned only enough to be dangerous. At least he admits it. Not all is bad though. Johnathan, there's no load on the engine at idle so I wouldn't be concerned. Fwiw I'm currently running a 5-20 and idle pressure is...

You're way below DH here Dub, especially with this guy....give it up and go missed. Geezer: Yeah, Heaven forbid anyone do something based on science. That's just crazy. I gotta tell ya, you're fascinating guy. You either have bigger balls than most or are totally oblivious to how you come...

Sure, that's a good reason to choose a battery. Batteries have almost as much BS associated with them as does oil and ignition parts. Fwiw Optimas are also made by Johnson Controls, are not "dry cell" (they're recombinant gas AGM), and like any battery run below it's end of cell voltage...

Hey, he asked for an opinion and I gave him one. Based on what I know about batteries I won't use Optima for several reasons. Others can do as they please based on what they know. I should've pointed out if he buys a FCLA battey he should stick with the upper scale or premium model no matter...

There are only 3 or 4 major battery makers in the entire USA. Interstate, Exide, Johnson Controls, the last one escapes me. Pretty much everything you can buy is made by them and re-badged. All will work as long as you take care of them, which most people don't. Get what you like but if I were...

http://tinyurl.com/2ffcgk

No, it's not the the starter. Could be lots of things including the battery itself. Measure the parasitic drain and report back.

No

Mod first, learn later = blown engine.

Fletch buddy, I know this is all new to you but did you even read the link Jdub posted? Without spark the computer in your car won't allow the fuel injectors to work. Therefore verify you have spark first. It's bad to do but pull a plug wire or use a timing light to check for it while cranking...

You have it all wrong. I know some pretty sharp guys who work at gas stations just as I know some real clowns who work at dealers. It was never my intent to offend Aaron or imply anything about the quality of his work. I've never met him and haven't visited his shop. I can only go by what others...

Sigh. Sure you do. There are a total of three in your car aren't there?

Mobile? That's in Bama ain't it? 50 lashes ;)

Yeah, even though Toyota finally settled on these so-called sludge monster engines there are hundreds of thousands of them that never had the problem. Me thinks it was more maintenance related than design. Based on what the average person knows about oil I wouldn't be at all surprised. That said...

I said the odds are it's still working. Maybe the odds have been beat. I can see half the coil shorting for example and the only way you could tell is to measure the companion's firing KV. Since you don't have the right gear and appear to be only eyeballing it there's no way to tell how good the...

For some reason I can't see the switch pix but all you'd need is momentary center off double pole double throw switches. Fairly common.