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Just FYI, the correct term is a beam torque wrench. The clicker is called a micrometer wrench. Nothing wrong with them other than they release torque at the point they click. Because of this some fastener applications require "torque and hold" where a beam type wrench must be used. I have...

Bummer. My theory is 7Ms are intolerant of sloppy work done by noobs using other than factory documentation and no research.

What a concept ;) Like Jeff I'd fix it too, otherwise Nick's advice is solid. Recover any refrigerant if you can and keep all the parts together in case you decide to one day reinstall it or sell the car. I'd plug or bag everything to keep the moisture out too. If the time comes you'll need a...

Lol...now that's entertainment. As has been correctly pointed out try the book or look here for an explanation of how the thing works: http://tinyurl.com/3dcxhr If that doesn't help you may need to jack up the radiator cap and roll another car under it...

Yeah, I often do that when too many anecdotal "facts" are offered without being backed up by science and the truth ends up getting lost in the mess. That way the thread remains consistent and future readers won't have to struggle making a decision about what's right even though the information...

We should? I see lots of posts that don't get many/no answers and for good reason. And a "member" of what exactly? You must have some of us confused with other people ;)

Maybe you ought to stop thinking in terms of wire colors and start thinking in terms of signals. There are only four of them you know. That way you might actually learn something useful...

I'm not going to get into this other than to say why use so many gages in the first place? Get an engine analyzer instead, a small box with an integral or remote display that samples all these inputs and more, either displaying them at will or in a scanned format with user programmable high and...

Lol...good stuff.

Not sure what "red" means because coolant color is nothing more than dye and is meaningless these days. I'll assume you're talking about Toyota's phosphate based coolant. The green is likely silicated coolant so as mentioned it's best to get it all out because it's not wise to mix coolant...

Anything located after the FPR is part of the return line and not involved in holding pressure ie; the only part of the fuel system that remains pressurized is the supply side and that ends at the FPR.

That's what I thought. Being multilingual myself I can usually discern between a non-native speaker and the lazy or downright illiterate that prowl these waters. Since I typically don't respond to them I wished to do you no injustice. Iraqi huh? You have, at least, my apologies...

No Sir, I meant about 2 minutes. Primary ECU inputs for determining FPU operation are coolant temp (THW) and the start signal (STA). Coolant temp must be around 100 C or higher. So sayeth the TCCS manual and experience monitoring my VSV seems to bear that out. There's some ambiguity in the...

Does the N/A cluster have the boost meter driver on it? I would think not. And noremacsupra, is English your native language?

Yes and that's a minimum. It should hang on for much longer. Loss of rest pressure could be a bad pump check valve, leaky injector (including the CSI), a funky FPR, leaky fitting, etc. Just have to hunt it down. The entire point of keeping the fuel system under pressure is to prevent vapor...

It's your car. Just want you to be informed is all. There are several things that can effect starting depending on whether it's cold or hot. My car pretty much starts at the touch of the key either way but several times in the past I've mentioned priming using the methods stated. I even tried...

What the last two posters said. However if you want it to come on with the key and still allow ECU control over the pump simply jumper (if you have a GTE) the Circuit Opening Relay. It's job, as stated above, is to stop the fuel pump whenever the engine stops. All vehicles utilize some...

An old thread. I'll point out again the PCV port on the TB isn't the same size all the way through as it appears on the outside. There is an orifice internal to the TB. It's really a non-issue as far as boost goes. Not to mention it's there for a reason and shouldn't be prevented from flowing in...

And your point is? Maybe you need a better mechanic. Or one who uses quality parts. Not all stem seals are created equal.

Jerry, sorry to say but I'm not the least bit surprised. The car is still rich. Yes, a new cat might pass but your guy is right: it's cheating and only masks the real problem, which will come back to haunt you. The CSI was not likely to be at fault. The O2 sensor reading is not correct. I...