Quote from a tech library:
Lightweight block castings have become very prevalent in our market. Since the overall mass has been reduced, the controlled stresses have become an important factor in the block's integrity. To ensure integrity, we must recreate that stress by using a Torque Plate...
Damn...now that's the right way to ask a question :thumbup:
I agree...it is likely your wiring to the knock sensors. You do need to fix it...this problem (and it is common) retards your timing making the car run rich. Do a search for "knock sensor rewire" and it will give you the info you...
If you're looking at local shops, the biggest consideration is "do they have the equipment capable for achieving an RA spec in the 30-50 range for decking the head/block?" That's what a MHG requires to seal properly...most shops do not have the equipment that can do it. And don't listen to...
BHG is the worst scenario...did you replace the rad cap yet? The gurgle behind the dash only indicates there is air in the system...a leak anywhere in the cooling system can cause that. Get the cooling system pressure tested.
Beat me to it! LOL
What you're asking for takes a lot of time. A suggestion...research the head and make your "to-do" list...post it with your questions and modify your list. This does two things...it gets you very familiar with the workings of the head and it sets your "path" firmly in your mind. Do the same...
A low milage JDM might just be the ticket then...with 30-60K the cylinders will likely just need a good hone and a set of rings. Make sure the crank's balanced, spec the bearings, and you're good to go. I would replace the oil pump though...don't know where that things been. LOL
I have to disagree with that. A new Lt with the right attitude whose focus is his men can learn the same lessons and do it in less time. Listening to his NOC's and taking advantage of their experience is key. I know that there are a lot of "shiny butter bars" that feel they have to make all...
If you're gonna re-build it, there's no difference in getting a JDM or US. The big thing is the condition of the head/block surfaces...is it pitted from a blown HG? If it's in good shape, decking for a MHG is not a problem. The cylinders can be bored (assuming stock size), the crank can be...
You can put it in, but you will need to test the stock FPR to make sure it's in spec afterwards. I'm guessing the FPR is the original...the new pump might be more than it can handle. If it's not in spec, try drilling the "J" tube out first to remove the restriction on the return line to the...
Might want to pressure test your cooling system...could have a small leak somewhere allowing air into the system. Could be anywhere...rad cap, hose, etc.
I did business with Ideal...took longer than expected, but I got what I paid for and the work (climate control color change) was excellent.
Ideal - this looks like the fallout from the T-shirt group buy. If Lagged was made right on the deal, have him contact SupraCentral for removal.
The stock rods will handle 500 HP...get them dressed and shot preened. Match balance the rods and pistons...you'll need to use forged pistons for these HP numbers. Use a 7M crank (pre-'89 has a 6M), it's heavier, but better balanced. Make sure the journals are in excellent shape...match the...
That's not good...did it strip or did it break off? These get rusted inside and will snap. If the head is off the car, you "might" be able to get it out and install a new one.
Def a dead or dying injector...from what I've seen with the Venoms, you doing a crap shoot on their reliability.
Damn IJ...do you Aussie's have a 7M crystal ball down there? LOL!
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