Take a look at this Porter:
http://www.totalseal.com/howdoo.html
The TRSM service specs lists the allowed gap. It is also pretty specific about how the gaps are aligned to the piston.
I think the ball type hone is easiest to use...I think IJ has a picture of one.
Mic the cylinders to make sure they're in spec...don't forget to gap the rings ;)
What!?!? That's outrageous...it cost me less to have the block bores .020 over!
Check your ISC valve...check out the ISC motor per the TRSM. Could be you just need to clean the carbon off the valve actuator/seat...replace the check valve while you have it off. I clean them with carb cleaner.
Yeah...you don't want to mess with us southern boys :2ar15:
I like it here too...it's just too friggin HOT this time of year. I'm from Birmingham ya know...grew up there ;)
And man, I'm telling ya about the "airport effect"...sure seems a lot of folks take their brain out and check it...
You mean like your comment about Atlanta and Alabama? Doubt you even know what you're talking about boy.
I happen to be from Alabama...grew up there...my mom and most my relatives live there. That comment was way out of line.
Dead on...the ARP stud spec is 81 ft/lbs with moly and 105ft/lbs with motor oil. You don't want to over torque.
The only way a Cometic is more "forgiving" is in the RA spec itself...the Cometic still requires a 50 RA on both the head and block. It is a bit higher than other MHG's on the...
You guys are right...cut open the bundle (it's an old harness) and yep, it's a shielded wire.
I still think it's goofy that Toyota would have the exposed wire unshielded :wtf:
Ohhh...you mean in the main harness bundle. Well that's goofy! Why in the heck would Toyota not shield the wires leading to the KS connector :3d_frown:
The knock sensors have just one wire...that's part of the problem. Shaeff's kit provides a ground and a shielded wire (coaxial cable) to the ECU. Clean signal...that's what you want ;)
Here's Shaeff's link:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2943
Nah...basic wiring stuff. The knock sensors are under the intake manifold...on a turbo, there's 2 of them. It is a bit of a pain to get to them...jack stands or better yet, a lift will make it easier. What you're doing on the rewire is giving the sensors a good ground so the ECU gets a clean...
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