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And I'm betting an AEM EMS could control the pump like your set-up. What are the parameters on your ECU set-up?

LOL...A simply outstanding idea Watson!

Ok IJ...spill it: Make & model of the pump and where did you get it...lol Looks like you took a stock rad hose and cut a piece out of the middle...is that correct?

I did fail to mention...they went off/back on with no problems at all...and I have a lift in my garage with air tools. Your milage may vary ;)

Yep - IJ's da man when it comes to these cars :bowdown: And your premise on his set-up is correct...the booster pump will move the coolant through the block to move the heat out. Combined with the fans running for a short time = very effective. Consider what I said about the higher...

Have you run this set-up in the cooler weather yet? What's happening (I think) is when you shut your car off and re-start after a short time, the heat has not had the chance to dissipate due to no airflow. In hot weather, the physics of temp transfer between the hot air and the hot rad is...

Replace the check valve...remember how much carbon was on the ISC valve tip? Guess what your check valve looks like. ;) Check for vac leaks too like snowball said.

Depends on how many beers between wrench turns :drink1: LOL Seriously, I did it by myself in about 5 hours total.

Could be that...or the sensor might not be making a good connection with the wire. The sensor is below the exhaust manifold on the block, just aft of the water pump housing....it's fairly big for a sensor...kinda dome shaped with the connector on top.

You're not using a wideband are you? No clue on what your AFR is under any condition...boost/cruise/idle...like JJ said, "butt dyno" How can you say "it's perfect" with those mods? Your motor...take a look at what going lean under boost can do in a few of the recent threads (detonation=piston...

Ok...high RPM ;) or higher engine speed.... Hence the temp dependant variable speed controller...as ambiant (highway MPH speed) airflow provides the flow necessary, the controller reduces the fan speed (RPM) as coolant temp drops. If it drops below the set temp (mine is set at 190 deg F)...

Heat soak is a MAJOR problem here in Phoenix (or this time of year...hell). The daytime temps hit 110 deg F on a regular basis. I got around it with a CSF radiator and the FAL fans you have. The CSF rad provides the volume of coolant to minimize the heat spikes you're talking about...it able...

Use this calculator: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos What you do is enter the stock tire size on the left...the enter what you want to run on the right. Compare the overall diameters to determine fitment. The widest I would go is a 285 (need a wider rim) on the rear and a...

I got 275/35/18 on the rear...235/40/18 on the front :naughty:

Good numbers Jay...you too Hot :icon_bigg

Yep! Me too ;)

Was it good for you? LOL

:naughty: I'd go the helicoil route and have the machine shop install a new fitting. Depending on what work you've done on the head, bound to be cheaper. Or you could weld an AN-12 fitting on and do it like this

LOL :naughty: I'm trying to lead the horse to water....we seen the result of detonation a couple of time recently huh. That fuel pressure seems a little low using 550's with a Lex. Suprahero - JJ is right. There is only a limited amount you can do with adjusting the FRP. It's a hit...

I'm thinkin it makes your name bold with a lovely shade of orange ;)