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Looks like you nailed your own estimate...good job :thumbup: How does she feel?

Hey man...don't feel too bad. I'll let you in on a secret...a lot of us here have screwed up too...maybe even worse than you ;) When you figure out what you're going to do, ask an we'll try to help. looks like to me you're open to being helped :thumbup:

God...will it ever stop :gotrice:

ARP spec on their head bolts is 75 ft/lbs using moly when installed on an aluminum head (like ours).

Ok...those are good (it's 81 ft/lbs for ARP studs using moly BTW) We'll reduce punishment to 25 lashes ;) Your block is going to require decking to the same RA spec.

Not only bad...sanding the block is best way there is to FUBAR a block deck. Using sealer on a new MHG = destroy/turn into goo factory seal coating. 85 ft/lbs on factory head bolts...bolts have already been stretched = crap shoot on even torque distributation. RA on the head surface...

Yeah...after reading Racer's post above, I'd say that might be pretty extreme :aigo:

Personally, I'm not going to put a motor in with an unknown history. I went with Born2dv's #3, but it never went into the car until after the re-build. Running strong ;)

White smoke = coolant Blue smoke = oil

eeewwwww :runaway: Aaron - a little ceramic coating will do wonders for that adapter :naughty:

Nah...I'm not that brutal ;)

:3d_frown: Well...I tried.

Yeah...things like this have a tendency to piss you off :rant2: Hope it works out for ya man.

That's what I was hoping too...needs to do a real compression test like both of us said.

I re-read your post and did an edit...see above. Dude...with this or any motor sometimes shit happens. Granted, the break-in was not textbook, but it should not have caused the #1 cylinder to go out like that. You may have a bad piston or rings set. The only way to know for sure is to pull...

Doesn't sound good...but perhaps there's hope: Black smoke = Rich Blue smoke = Oil Smoke from the valve covers = rings Your smoke from a stop is likely a combination of the above...get the rich condition sorted out 1st. Consider removing the piggybacks and use just the ECU...check for...

Yeah...that's EXACTLY the way my wife gets my attention off turning wrenches. Conniving females...lol

And this has precedence over building up a motor! :eek2: What are you thinking Man!

Mark FTW! You're a good guy Mark...remember you helped me out a while back. It's great this worked out for ya man!

Ok IJ...here's what I'm thinking: AEM signal power to relay to switch battery power to pump...pump ground to chassis. Temp wise: Thermostat is at 180; fans come on at 190-200...would switching the pump on at 200 be a good temp or should I use a little higher to account for ECU coolant temp...