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Heehee...yeah, I'm getting soft in my old age. Guess I need to go back to the philosophy of my former life...blanket the target with CBU and let God sort em out. ;)

I'm with ya man...bleeding the brakes is the 1st thing you do when you change out the calipers...heck, I do it when I change pads! At least he drove around the cul-de-sac vs. beaming off to go to work in a hurry. Moral of the story...don't fuck with the brakes without reading the TRSM or...

Yeah...bleeding is pretty simple, and if he can change a caliper, I assume he can bleed the brakes. But, like you said IJ, Brakes are one of those things that are definitely self critiquing!

Brake fluid is one of those things that gets over looked...kinda like changing the LSD oil ;) Brake fluid absorbs water after a period of time...changing it every 2 years min is a really good idea. When you bleed them, get a piece of rubber/plastic hose and fit it over the bleed nut...

Bleed your brakes...make sure you use Dot 3 or 4 fluid. In fact, you may want to bleed each wheel until the fluid runs clear...a complete replacement of the fluid. I'll bet it hasn't been done for years ;)

Suggest you listen to JJ...my '87 Nissan Pathfinder failed the AZ dyno test. Did a search here and concluded it must be my CAT or O2 sensor...or both. JJ made most of the posts I relied on. Spent about $200 total for both parts and it knocked my emmissions down to less than 25% of the AZ...

I agree with Nick...50w oil is not a good idea IMO. 10w-40 perhaps on a high milage motor, but that is as heavy as I would go. Do a search on oil here and you'll see why I say this...it's been beat to death.

Thank you Gentlemen - The more I think about this (yes it hurts...LOL), the more I suspect you guys are correct...it's the LEDs. I used them because I had the dash out replacing a speedo cable and it seemd like a good upgrade...as with many things on this car, that doesn't seem to be the case...

Ok...here's my plan: I looked at the alternator connector; the only way (I can see) to isolate the "L" line is to install an in-line fuse block or cut the wire. I'll have to head over to Ace Hardware and get one...I'll use a 7.5A fuse. I'll let you know what the result is. I did the emer...

If you shim the oil pump, I recommend 1-3mm (about 2 washers). Higher oil pressure will increase flow (rate actually), but only to the point where the actual oil passage size and bearing clearances can accommodate. Remember the system design is a low pressure high volume set-up...

LOL...NP. I was feeling like a Noob tho...scratching my head "where is that damn fuse".... Ok, here's what I did (reference the attached diagram): I took a test light grounded to the alternator case and went through the 3 wires with the motor running. B-Y wire - test light lit, no change...

Yeah...I know :( I apologize...didn't dawn on me until I went out to the garage this afternoon. And I actually thought the same thing...the LEDs might not be providing the resistance necessary. When I was pulling the plug on the taillight sensor, I remembered how the turn signal lights...

Yeah, mine actually started when my alternator failed...replaced it, but the problme with the lights being on dim with the motor running stayed. Nice AVTR...is that a T-6? Good ole Enid by the sea ;) I was down at Laughin many moons ago.

Ok...tried this out. Hope I did it correctly; electricial problems are not my strong suite ;) After I got home and poked around the engine bay, I remembered a couple of other details on my car...I have the 100 amp MR2 alternator installed. It fits like factory and plugs up with no...

:withstupi You don't want to drill the fitting out. AN fittings are designed to seal on the 37 deg angle...mess it up and you risk losing the seal. A -8 fitting will flow a LOT of oil...more than you will probably ever need.

That's just, just :3d_frown: Words don't describe it :runaway:

Don't take them out...they are casting plugs, you'll never get them to seal again. A good solvent will help desolve the carbon/oil residue in the intake manifold...let it soak. There are also a couple of products on the market guys have used here to clean the top of their pistons while they...

LOL...I was, but "timed" out. And hey, on my last trip I did 5 legs a day bouncing around CA, OR, NV and AZ...actually a nice change of pace vs the west coast to east coast routine.

If yours is an '88 turbo, it should be a 3.90 ratio. They changed to 3.73 in '89 for the turbo models. Edit: Thought you might like to know. Took my Supra out on the highway today...at 3000rpm, got 83 MPH. I have a 3.90 differential.

Get well soon Suzie! :burnout: