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You are correct...I was assuming he already did this. The auto ECU will tell you if there is an electronics/sensor fault. I did a little brush-up reading...you'll need to replace the throttle cable. The TRSM says it can cause clutch/brake slippage due to inadequate line pressure...

It controls line pressure and that can affect both up & down shift. But after reading above, I'm more inclined to agree that the #1 solenoid is the culprit...or you have an obstruction in the valve body at the #1 solenoid.

I'm pretty sure Randy makes one for the CT26 that keeps the internal gate. Check out his website in the vendor section. I'd get the wastegate pipe routed back into the exhaust...that is unless you want it to be really, really loud when you open the motor up ;)

The throttle cable (kick down) controls line pressure in an auto. That could very well be your problem since you're doing fine in 1st & 2nd. Quick question...if you manually shift 1st, 2nd, Drive...does it respond normally?

Sorry Chris, but the HKS has a restriction at the flex. Good pipe with a stock elbow, but not what you want with a full flow elbow like the Lipp. ;)

If I remember correctly the RT downpipe (sold by SupraSport) is a full 3" pipe w/ flex. Should bolt right up to that Lipp elbow ;)

HP is not what you should be looking at...boost level is your concern...related, but not the same. Boost effectively increases your compression inside the cylinders putting stress on the HG. 12 psi with a good tune is a pretty safe bet on a composite HG...14 psi is starting to push it...

The catch can is there to condense oil vapor for the PVC (the two nipples on the valve covers)...it's purpose is to prevent oil vapor from being sucked through the intercooler and condensing there instead. That's why I told you to check the intercooler...it's purpose it to cool the hot air...

That's really good to know...since the injectors are not polarized, the wiring color doesn't matter either.

Empty the catch can? Oh...BTW, your intercooler probably has a good bit of oil condensed in it.

I think Porter is talking about Copper RTV for the front plate. I wouldn't use any spray sealer on a NEW MHG...it can destroy the factory coating that does what you're saying. However, on a used MHG, using a spray sealer should be fine.

Ohhh...but the force is strong with the Aussies

This thread has got me thinking I just might have to come down there and pay you Aussie's a visit.

Hmmm...wonder if the medical facilities take TriCare in Australia.

Dude...why so defensive? Toyota FPIG isn't used as a head gasket...you use it on the front of the motor on the front plate to effect an oil seal. You can use RTV there, or even silicone. The head gasket has nothing to do with FPIG.

:stickpoke Ughhh...he was just answering your question. Toyota FPIG is Form In Place Gasket...Kinda like RTV, but not a messy imo.

The military kinda trains that out of ya ;) But I do know what you mean...it's not something I would particularly enjoy doing. And that is very, very true...I look at a weapon as a last resort. Here in AZ it's an "open carry" state...that means you can actually carry a gun anywhere as...

Black smoke = Rich Blue Smoke = Oil White Smoke = Coolant Vent the catch can to the atmosphere, block the hole in the accordian hose, and take for a run...if you still have smoke, it's something else.

Glock 20 here...been carrying it for the last 15 years. Yeah...you never know who's carrying :naughty: I agree with the "try to back out" first tactic, but have the fire power to win if cornered.