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Why don't you just plug the '87 ECT up and give it a shot?

From our "friends" in the Middle East. Unfortunately...it will take some time to produce this field...drilling at that depth takes time and lots of $$$.

How about a Chrome plate ;) I would def check the cam seals man...very easy to replace. Also take a look at where the head meets the front plate (the big aluminum cast part with the water pump housing). There is suppose to be silicone sealer where it meets the head and it should be...

Fuel cut is determined by air flow through the AFM...it will depend on how much the DDP affects turbo spool. And, yes, you can turn down the boost to keep the ECU out of fuel cut. Use caution running boost at near fuel cut...if you lean out the motor without the supporting fuel mods, it's a...

Toyota Form In Place Gasket...it's a lot like RTV. Have you checked the cam seals?

And that is outstanding :icon_bigg Don't get me wrong...I love pushing the envelope. All I want the noobs to understand that that is what they are doing and milage may vary from 7M to 7M. It's the difference between dumb bet and knowing the odds and that's all. One other consideration...

Over 14 psi, you are running a composite HG at it's limit...I'm not saying you can't do it, but running anything at max is going to cause a failure. It's just a matter of time. ;) And exceeding torque spec for ARP harware is not a good idea. For the stock head bolts, 75 ft/lbs is safe...more...

Well...now you're talking HP. Boost has a lot to do with that on a 7M, but so does mods to the fuel and air intake system to support the higher boost. Stock rods and pistons are good to around 500 HP safely. That assumes a re-build to put all bearing clearances into spec, decking the block...

Sure I did...see post #10. The stock HG is the weak link concerning boost.

This is very true...coolant contamination will FUBAR your rod bearing in short order. However, that assumes the HG in this case did not seal properly. That is going to depend on the machine work, type HG, etc. Some of those coolant passages look pretty rough, but if the HG sealed around them...

Not at all, but air is getting in the system some how. And finding where can drive you absolutely crazy. What Adjuster said is the starting point...you want to get all the air out of the system. A pressure test will tell you that you have a leak...could be simple like a radiator cap. I...

Good buy! Very nice looking car. Just don't turn the boost up until you've done a little reading here...the stock head gasket is a serious weakness on this car ;)

And...I would def have the coolant system pressure tested ;)

Heehee...that's how it's really done in a fighter squadron. It's not like on "Top Gun" where you get a cool call sign like "Maverick". It's usually because you screwed up and if you let it be known that don't like it...you just made sure it stuck ;) Here's a couple of examples of real...

New call sign...."Sunshine" LOL j/k ;)

And what's 5 lbs amongst friends...LOL

It's actually 105 ft/lbs for motor oil. ARP stud/bolt torque specs are for 75% of the rated strength of the hardware. The stud torque spec is 81 ft/lbs for moly...if you go to 120 ft/lbs with moly, you just exceeded rated torque strength by 11%. For motor oil, if you go to 120 ft/lbs you...

I would be more worried about the pitting on the surface of the head. The pitting/corrosion in the water channels should be ok so long as the HG sealed around them. The bronze colored deposits could be from a number of things, but most likely someone used a pour-in radiator sealer to stop...

LOL! :runaway:

That is true...a composite HG is designed to make up for the machining imperfections on a stock block/head surface. The downside is a composite HG is only good for about 12 psi with the head bolts at 75 ft/lbs...if your HP goals requires less that that amount of boost, you will be fine ;)