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Clean this up with punctuation and spelling...then you might get an answer. :3d_frown:

Here's the TRSM procedure to check the fuel pump: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_071.html You problem could very well be fuel related. If your AFR goes high under boost, that means lean...not good...that causes detonation and or melted pistons.

The whole assembly has to be replaced. The pin holding the 3 linkage pieces through the middle is press fitted and swaged to the base bracket...you have to grind the bracket end off to remove the pin. That is unless you have access to a welder. You could take it apart and inspect the...

PITA Pain In The A$$

B61...full yield A "little" demo

It's actually 86.5-88 and 89-92 for the differences in body style...primarily the front bumper and rear spoiler. The '89 is a bit of a frankenstein, you'll see parts from the earlier model on them. For example, early '89 often have the square type motor mounts...late '89 have the round type...

Will Driftmotion build a performance 7M-GTE? Looked at their website and saw a bunch of JDM motors. Not getting a warm fuzzy on TEP...any other comments on them? Thanks Guys!

Yeah...I'm with ya. I was looking at this for a friend of mine...we can pull/install the motor NP. It's the engine build we were looking at. Doesn't have the time or place to put it together. Anyone used these guys to build a motor?

Hey guys...found this shop in Hollywood CA. http://www.racetep.com/INDEXX.html Got quite an impressive build-up list for the 7M-GTE. http://www.racetep.com/7mgt.htm Any of you guys use this shop? Other than pricing, what did you think of them...did they live up to their build...

LOL! :runaway:

I'm with IJ...install bearings on the tight side of spec.

This is a good deal since they come with rings. The 9:1 will work fine, but you will have to be more careful with boost psi...higher boost effectively increases compression, making the possibility of detonation more of a problem since you have a higher compression ratio to start with. You...

Actually, it's a single LED 5mm wedge bulb (#74) with a clear cone diffuser encased on top of the LED. It's very bright.

Yep...vivid blue...just like the headlight bright indicator. Looks good ;)

Cam seals (much easier) or crank seal (not as easy, but easier than an oil pan)

Are you sure the oil is not coming out of the small hole in the lower timing cover behind the crank.

Jeez Man...I'm starting to sound like a broken record...I say this a couple of times a week. Heck, I've posted the spec sheets I don't know how many times. Is it that hard to read the instructions?!?!?

Sigh! :3d_frown: MHGs come with a spec sheet and instructions...read and heed...especially the RA spec. The RA spec applies to BOTH the head and block surface. You may have to remove rivets from the MHG. And don't use spray sealer on a new MHG...it can destroy the factory coating. ARP...

I put blue LEDs in my turn signals; no chance to the stock plastic color. They shine blue when actuated.

Glock 20 here...10mm...15 rnd drop free mags ;) I'm a southerner myself...he needs training to to execute the "double tap" (BANG, BANG) correctly. :2ar15: Conserves ammo!