There is no better fire suppressant known than Halon. Unlike other agents halon actually kills the chemical process that makes fire. It leaves zero mess too. Problem is it's expensive because like R12 it's been banned by the Montreal Protocol. Ozone hole and all that. I dunno about Canada but...
Two words for here: better moderation. As for the Freeze 12 issue, forming a belief based on ones or others experience is a common logical fallacy most people fall prey to.
Well, I don't see it happening. As I said Wikipedia is a good example. I wish you luck though. I'd like to help but unlike some I actually have a life outside this old car and I've already been neglecting it too much just by being here. Considering the futility of gaining ground against the BS I...
Indeed. Like Wikipedia it'll just end up as a mass of misinformation mingled with truth and without the ability of most to decide between the two. Forums do a fine job of that now. Take this one for example.
Ah well, I tried. There is no debate, only science. Or look at it this way: While Freeze 12 is cheaper than CFC12 it's 80% HFC-134a. You can get 134a anywhere and it works better as long as the system is properly converted. 134a doesn't work as well as CFC-12 in a system designed for CFC-12...
Well, I am an AC expert. I hold EPA 608 universal certification along with 609 MVAC. 608 universal requires real study and testing unlike the 609 they hand out to anyone for $20 and an open book test on the internet. I can work on anything from a car to 200 ton roof top units. You on the other...
Ugh. That tech should have his license revoked. Freeze 12 is already 80% 134a...and 20% something that will cost you big time at some point in the future. Like an entire system overhaul. Pretty much guaranteed. When will they learn...
Shucks, golly. Thanks dirgle. It's OK. Petey was just mistaken and people don't like to be told they're wrong. I would've edjumacated him but since he kept ignoring what Grim and I were saying I figured just let it go. I'm here to inform, not argue. His loss. Besides, it's just the internet ;)
What's an "air screw driver?"
1) The ECU will not disable the ESA system and allow initial timing to be set unless the IDL input is grounded. That comes from the TPS. Check for a code 51 with the throttle fully closed. You should not have it. If you do the TPS must be adjusted or replaced...
The thread that will not die...even after the OP chimes it. What a panic.
While I'm here the idle bypass screw should be fully seated. (It should be seated even when I'm not here ;))
Son of a bitch, someone actually spelled vacuum right. Congrats, in spite of your otherwise horrific writing you win a free get out of search jail card for this post only.
The EVAP canister can be removed and the vacuum (!) line plugged at either the throttle body, the BVSV on the radiator, or...
127-167 mv across E1 and KS? I bet the car doesn't rev well. Assuming you measured correctly either that AFM or the connector has a problem. What is the voltage between VC and E1? I'm gonna guess it's 5 volts because THA is valid.
Purty. Not all shops have a profilometer but any machine shop worthy of the name should have at a set of surface roughness standards. They're like what, $80 to $100 for the set? Ask to see those. It'll give you a perfect idea of what it should look and feel like.
Take off the driver's side kick panel. Look at the middle junction block that has two round relays in the center. Look at the very top of this block and you'll see two connectors. The one on the left is bigger. You're looking at Junction Block 1, connector 1B. Unplug 1B if you can. You'll see a...
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