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What kind of springs you using Ian? Still Ferrera + retainers?

Gotta question for ya...how can you possibily keep the block surface straight if you sand it? In fact, that's the best possible way to FUBAR a block there is. If you want to getto your MHG install...have at it. This IS NOT the right way to surface a block! Take a look at the ARP stud spec...

Good post Satan...I'm gonna elaborate ;) Stock HG - composite material, very forgiving of block/head surface RA. Good for 14 psi (some have run more) with ARP hardware. HKS Stopper type - best there is, also the most expensive. 30 RA spec. Crank the boost to your hearts content (you...

That would be good if you plan on more tuning for your car. And if you have a Lex, give that to him too...with the MAFT Pro, you can eliminate the AFM. I'm pretty sure the MAFT Pro has a boost controller function as well. On both cars, I'd get a wideband O2...especially for the MAFT. It's...

Here's what I found on it...looks like you might have your hooked up backwards. GM Boost Control Solenoid: Port 1: Silver plug, by itself on one end. Port 2: Opposite port, next to port 3 Port 3: Comes with a small filter on it. I don't believe the solenoid is polarity sensitive...

Yeah...that would be better. I was just thinking of a temporary fix until he could get a new HCV.

Or the key word could be "brake"...we talking about semantics here. Illustrates the responsibility of the person asking the question to use correct terminology, light/wire color, and anything else to make the problem perfectly clear.

Actually the red light on the speedo is called "Brake System Warning Light"...this is what I thought he was talking about based on Post #6. The yellow tail light in the cluster with the "Engine System Warning Light" (or Check Engine Light) is called "Rear Light Failure Warning Light"...it...

If you got an old accordian hose laying around, take one of the small metal hose fittings out of it and use it as a splice for between the hoses. Just clamp both ends tight. You do know this will give you full time heat.

Oh Yeah! That would be awesome IJ! Is that you in the back in the pic?

Hey! Booze is the best LPR known to man :naughty:

Yes...a bad alternator will cause both the charge light and the brake light to come on.

Wow!!! I would absolutely love to get a ride in a P-51...IJ that was a once in a lifetime event man! Bet ya could just feel the raw power of that Merlin ;) My father-in-law was in the Army during the Korean war and they were still using P-51's for close air support assisting the Army. He...

Those do look good Wolfie. I think you would get a great response on a set of front clears that mount like the stockers. No one has made a set that is affordable. Most the ones I've seen were rear clear markers modified to fit the front...quite a bit of custom work to do.

Nukes: When you want it done right...the first time.

LOL...and all true! :drink1:

LOL...you guys just want to see me suffer :icon_bigg It's on a VHS tape...donno if I have the technology to convert it.

That's what I was thinking...you're right, the bulb could be burned out on that one as well. It's a std bulb I believe...the LED spoilers are on '89+ turbos.

She has an '87...there is no spoiler brake light ;) The blinkers are on a separate circuit...the sensor detects the tail and brake lights.

Those are the correct bulbs. I just wanted to make sure you didn't use LED bulbs...LED's don't provide enough resistance for the tail light sensor and will cause the dash light to illiminate even though the bulbs work. Since you are using std bulbs, it's likely one brake bulb is not working...