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Yes...my motor is balanced and blueprinted. I look at it as more of making sure the motor will last. Vibration is not good for a motor...especially harmonic vibration on a high HP engine. Also, don't be tempted to use a light weight crank pulley...the 7M has a harmonic dampner that is...

That is the fuel feed line to the rail...it goes from the junction on the block to the back of the fuel rail. I used AN-6 stainless line. The fitting is a 14mm x 1.5mm to AN-6 adapter...you will need two...one for the fuel rail and one for the junction on the block. Use teflon paste on the...

Rich. It would act just like a boost leak.

Just posted a bunch of info on this a few days ago...post #9: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27433 You DO want to have the block decked for a MHG!

Thanks for the suggestions guys...The fuse blows as soon at the key is turned to IGN. It's gotta be the harness grounding some where...I took the guage cluster completely out (ckecked the connectors too) and the fuse still blew. :3d_frown: This is really starting to piss me off!

It's the 7.5 Amp gauge fuse. I installed the EGR to pass emissions...non-CA car...no EGR sensor.

Yeah...come to that conclusion too :3d_frown: This fuse feeds through several connectors on J/B 1 (left kick panel). If I disconnected each one at a time, replacing the fuse as it blows...would that help narrow the harness down causing the problem?

This is driving me nuts...the gauge fuse runs a whole list of stuff besides the combination meter. The fuse is blowing when I turn the key and I need this fixed. Background - Fuse 1st blew cruising at 70 MPH...nothing unusual. The car dropped out of overdrive (auto tranny) and all the dash...

First - What is the brand of the guage? And is it a wideband? Second - You need a wideband sensor to get accurate readings...that requires a bung welded on your downpipe.

This has a more common name...methanol. The Supra Owners manual specifically recommends that you do not use fuels containing methanol...it is corrosive to the rubber parts in the fuel system. It will also cause the engine to run lean. It will reduce CO emissions, slightly lower HC, and can...

Plug gap should not break piston ring lands...detontation will though. High boost, lean AFR, low octane gas all can cause detonation. Running a wideband O2 will help you see what's going on with AFR's. An oversize plug gap will cause the spark to blow out under boost and cause a high RPM miss.

Bare 14 guage copper wire here ;)

^^^ Yep! You do not need a SAFC with the Lex/550 set-up. A wide band will tell you what's happening with the motor and you can tune to a limited degree with an AFPR. Once you get it stable, get a MAFT Pro for more tuning ability.

I with Suprarich...that hissing you heard could just as easily be a rubber water line going to the turbo...when they blow, coolant goes all over the top of the motor. Concerning HG's....Read this post...I put a lot of info in post #9 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27433

Good for you Peter (keeping fingers crossed) If it helps, it took me almost a year to un-do all the various "engineering" jobs the previous owner did to my Supra.

I coated a bunch of parts for a Navy guy at Virginia Beach...Both him and his son were building up a couple of killer Mk III's.

An aluminum front under cover would be :bigthumb:

Is that just before the throttle body? I was thinking of doing the same thing on the cross pipe (3000 pipe) on top of the engine.

^^^ Yes it is! IJ - Brake cleaner and/or acetone will take the old viton right off. If you use a scotch bright pad (fine) in combination, it has just enough abrasive action to get it off without harming the steel.

This is the correct ARP spec for studs...it's 105 ft/lbs if you use oil. Dead on! Only thing to add is the front plate (big cast aluminum piece w/ the water pump housing) has to be machined when the block is decked. If it's not, it will be higher than the block surface and will not allow...