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Starbucks...great company, treats employees really well, med insurance for over 20 hr week, free coffee every week ;)

That goes between the #2 & #3 intake manifold runners to a small (short) hard line attached to the head (between the fuel rail & head), to the top hard line (next to L=200 on the diagram) on the forward cross vac on the 3000 pipe, to the BOV.

The full flow elbow is a great upgrade...removes a major restriction in the exhaust. But, you will also need a 3" down pipe and 3" CAT back to get any real gain. Consider a single piece 3" down pipe...BIC and Cooleze both make nice pipes ;)

He's running 12.5 psi on a Garrett to4e...he has some vids posted of his latest dyno runs. That's is damn good...Jay's a smart man. Running over 14 psi on a composite gasket is hitting it's limit...leave a little fudge factor and it will last a long time. The key is proper torque on the ARP...

Oh man...auto tranny problems can be a bear to track down. I'm gonna make a couple of assumptions...the fluid is fresh and at the proper level and the harness is the original. First check the diag codes...go here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AT&Page=13...

I modified mine...14 guage and made it longer so I could ground it on the manifold with the rest of the grounding wires.

I'm not...I have an AEM EMS sitting here begging to be installed. I just keep getting distracted with gauge fuses blowing, timing belt jumping a tooth, tranny computer going tango uniform, and my fan controller frying itself. Now that I've vented ;) I personally know a couple of guys...

Ummm...yes auto trannys have a neutral start switch. It's located on the passenger side of the tranny...the shift linkage goes through it. Mine is an '89...the wire from the ignition switch to the neutral start switch is black-white, the wire from the neutral start switch to the starter is...

get a MAFT Pro and switch to speed density. You eliminate the AFM all together ;)

Yep...seems like a good thing to do. Those type of cleaners (carb, brake, etc) will kill the AFM. You can try this...take the sensor out of the housing, get some PURE alcohol in a small jar, swish the probe in the alcohol for 30 sec, and blow it off with a can of compressed air (used for...

It's in the TRSM...EFI section. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtips.aspx

Got mine mounted under the passenger side head light above the intercooler piping. The filter is sideways vs straight down.

I had a very similar problem. The tach started jumping up/down then the gauge fuse blew taking out the entire instrument cluster, plus causing all kind of other problems. Turned out it was the harness...it touched the EGR fitting that attached to the intake manifold, melting a small area. It...

On the harness side ('89)...the blue wire from the sensor connects to a light yellow or off white wire.

Yep...it has hangers too. You can cut them off if you don't need or order with one side or the other. I cut the hanger off on the passenger side.

Got a Cooleze test pipe here on a Blitz exhaust...fits perfect.

I believe that's the location for the NA knock sensor.

Yeah...it's got a rotary in it. Spins at 250,000 rpm ;)

This shows part # 16210-42050 for the GTE; part # 16210-42040 for the GE. I'm pretty sure they are different, but run the GE fan clutch...if it fails just replace it.

Post #9 in the thread I posted above outlines what you need for prep. The RA spec is very important for proper MHG seal. The Cometic is only more "forgiving" in the sense that the RA spec is 50...most others require a RA of 30. "Looking good" does not mean the RA spec is met...if you can feel...