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The Togo pumps are marketed as a high volume pump...it's really just a std output pump. They work fine, but don't pay a premium for it.

That's the way to think...do it right, do it once ;) Just don't push the motor too hard with a composite HG and use ARP hardware (did I say torque to ARP spec...lol). Make sure you measure the head/block decks for flatness per the TRSM...In fact read the TRSM on this subject several times...

Get a new one ;)

In general, a composite HG will blow (under detonation) before it damages the pistons. Having said that, I've seen piston lands come apart and the composite HG did not blow ;) Running a MHG does not put the motor at risk...pushing the motor to high HP numbers does though. The more boost you...

Not having a ground for high voltage electrics (like coils) is not a good thing. You might get away with it, but sooner or later the electrics grimlin is gonna get ya ;)

Death to the HG or the pistons ;) FYI...IJ's motor took a detonation hit (went lean on him) at 30 psi...his HKS Stopper MHG survived. A MHG allows you to push the limits more than a composite HG allows. I'm not saying running over 14 psi of boost will cause detonation...there are many...

It's a personal choice...like I said, it won't hurt on a composite HG. The big thing here is to use ARP hardware (torqued to ARP spec). You want the head/block deck smooth as possible, but you don't have to worry about a low RA like you do on a MHG. Oh...HP out of this motor is directly...

:umno: Not a good idea.

That's where the "J" tube for the fuel return line was. I'm using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...you can see it in the 2nd pic on the drivers side shock tower. The line coming off the bottom of the FPR goes directly to the stock fuel return hard line to the tank. Made the "J" tube...

It's a rule of thumb...some guys have run a stock HG to 16-18 psi (with a good tune) and had it hold, but this is the exception. Everyone I know that has kept the boost down in the 12-14 psi range has done fine...that is also on a good tune and a re-build done right. Concerning the spray...

The tach gets its signal from the igniter (turbo motor). You could have a break in the wire.

Thank you...spent a lot of time on this motor. In fact, been working on it today installing an ATI dampner and a Greddy timing belt. Here's a couple of pics of when I installed it last year.

You can use the copper spray on a composite HG...it's a NEW metal HG you do not want to use any kind of sealer on. If you use ARP hardware torqued to the ARP spec sheet that comes with it, you will be able to run 14 psi all day with no problem. Much over that though and you're asking to blow it ;)

That hard line is there to keep the rubber tubing from touching the head...if it melts through, your BOV will not function correctly. You can drop the hard line down from the top and you can get to the bolt that secures it from the top too. Do this: Put a length of rubber tubing on the...

That is correct! There's a short hard line (3-4" long) that attaches to the head and goes between the rubber lines at about where you have the angle drawn. And you're welcome ;)

Just so happens I have the car up on the rack...here's a pic of the line from the bottom side...you can see where it connects to the fitting you have circled. It turns up, and if you look carefully, you can see the short hard line I described.

This is the best I can do...that's a really tight area to see. The blue vac line in the pic starts at the short hard line I talked about and goes to the 3000 pipe hard line. The connection at the bottom of the line in the pic goes to the fitting you have circled.

The biggest question is can you get the TPS to talk to the ECU...stocK ECU = challenging...stand alone = much easier. Plus, what is the bolt pattern for the intake manifold and does it match. If you are using a FFM...it should be fine (assuming the bolt patter matches). On a stock manifold...

:gotrice:

Stock is 60mm diameter...Turbo A is 65mm.