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Thanks guy but 3p's post above beats it by miles. Root cause analysis....makes my diaper damp just reading it ;)

Nick: That IM240 stuff threw me for a bit. Not used to working with it. After this thread got started I had to spend a few hours at Colorado State's National Emissions Lab website to puzzle it out. I'm ok with it now. When enhanced testing was mandated in Cali they tried to force the 240 on us...

Lots of venting in this thread ;) I'd like to help the guy. We all would. After all helping others is why many of us are here and when we can't it's frustrating. The way I see it is if we didn't really care it wouldn't be. However helping over the Net is dependent on the poster knowing at least...

He does have more than one problem but HC is not an indication of rich mixture unless the engine is in rich misfire and his CO is nowhere near bad enough to indicate that. As you pointed out he has decent combustion. The slightly elevated cat temp is likely due to HC although I'd expect it to...

OBDII is great. I only wish these cars had it. Mode $06 alone would be worth it. Josh: The cat seems to be working but I'd expect it to be hotter with all the HC going through it. It's doing something though because I doubt these engines put out 5 gr/mile CO ahead of the cat. 15 would be more...

Ja. Resolving emissions issues requires a solid foundation of advanced automotive understanding plus lots of specialized knowledge. Reading comprehension and the ability to construct coherent sentences would seem to be prerequisites.

A flush machine is best but you can disconnect one of the cooler lines and do it yourself. Either run the engine for short periods or disable spark and fuel (unplug the CPS) and crank it. Pump out a few quarts at a time while adding the same in new fluid back. When the fluid coming out changes...

Jake, Grim Jack said it best. Go this way and you'd better keep the motor and cold start system in perfect tune. Also keep in mind CPS signal output is proportional to cranking speed and there's a minimum needed. Add to that the ECU itself doesn't like a B+ below 11 volts. Imo you're asking for...

Yeah, imo the stock cooling system is much maligned without reason. I've no doubt in cases where it gives trouble there's something wrong or people have mucked with it. Lol, like putting electric fans on. Mine has never given me a problem of any kind in even the hottest weather. Even in the...

Old thread but if one goes by flow direction the EFI and gage sensors are pre-thermostat because for proper EFI operation coolant temp must be sensed with the T stat closed. Fwiw a "normal" temperature indication on the dash doesn't mean the T stat is open either. All the 7Ms I've checked will...

Sigh. What an idiot I am.

Since you live in Mechanicsville there must be lots of them around....

If it was installed right it shouldn't have failed. Then again new parts fail all the time. Fwiw the switch is downstream of the start relay so yeah, looks like it could be the neutral switch. Try juggling the shift selector in P and N while holding the key to start. If that doesn't help then...

Meh, whippersnappers ;). I have a 1981 model year car with heated mirrors, auto off defogger, and tilt telescoping steering wheel. Wasn't all that unusual.

http://tinyurl.com/2mdwep Looks like pin 7 to pin 1 for stop lights and http://tinyurl.com/ywwsvg and pin 10 to pin 4 for tails. LFMs are cheap on ebay btw...

Yikes, 5% CO. The CO2 is dismal too. Rich is an understatement but there's something weird going on because the O2 indicates a lean mixture. I'm guessing your exhaust system has seen better days. It's for sure rich though, the high CO and low NOx prove it. Congrats, you're deep into the Gross...

Just yankin' yer chain a bit Loki. My point was you're giving the ECU too much credit. It's a computer and a pretty stupid one at that. If it's setting code 34 it's also shutting the injectors off. In other words it *is* fuel cut. Treat it as such. Look for anything that would cause excess flow...

He has an auto. I suggest he get it fixed right instead of mickey mousing things. It's simple. If the mechanic he used before can't fix it right pretty much anyone one else should be able to.

Sorry, I don't do spoon feeding. Not when it comes to basics. I was simply amused how the poster seems to think his problem is unrelated to the work recently done on the car. I'm also amused at the seemingly endless number of posts about engines that don't run right after they've been worked on...

So you're getting code 34, what the engine does feels like fuel cut but you know it's not, and you want to know if this will make the car stumble. Am I understanding that right? ;)