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The stock thermostat is 195 deg ;) DO NOT run this motor without a thermostat!

Just did mine...took about 4-5 hours. I had to remove my radiator; it's a dual core and got in the way...removing it also allowed me to use Mr. Air Impact Wrench on the crank bolt ;) I just tapped the damper off with a rubber hammer...came off easy, but you may need a puller. The lower...

Any time man! :icon_bigg

Burned out bulb? ;) LOL!

I would loosen them all and torque in sequence.

I would drop to 81 ft/lbs...I'm pretty sure your studs are ok since you have not run the motor. Same for distorting the head...you've put no real stress on it. More torque is not necessarily better...like I said earlier, you approached the rated strength of the studs. 81 ft/lbs with the...

The TRSM requires matchmarks on both flanges where the driveshaft bolts up to the differential. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=PR&Page=3 On a new, balanced single piece shaft from Jaws...you basically just bolt it up. However, if I ever have to remove it...

Here's some info from the ARP site that will answer your question: If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP research has verified the following...

LOL...yes I have! I suffer from CRS...Can't Remember Shit

If you can get some more moly, that's best...just go to 81 ft/lbs torque. I just use straight 30W motor oil...make sure you clean all the moly off both the nut and stud with a solvent or brake cleaner. The studs to the head are meant to be installed dry...hand tight. The oil (or moly) goes...

I was wondering when somebody would make this crack...LOL :biglaugh:

I'd pull all of them and re-install...you don't want to have any uneven torque at all. It's good the head has not been heated up yet ;)

105 ft/lbs with motor oil...not moly. Your call man ;) Hope it didn't distort your head like Aaron talked about.

JawsGear...very nice single piece, aluminum driveshaft. Did a write up on it a while back...search for "aluminum" in the titles and "jdub" as poster.

That sounds more like a tranny problem...does it vibrate or make any sounds any other time? Have you checked or changed your ATF lately?

Yes you can replace just the bearing...they're close to $200 here in the US. Not sure about the UK :dunno:

If you still have the stock driveshaft, check the center bearing.

That changes things! A warped rotor causes vibration WHILE the car is stopping...not when it's at a complete stop. Do you have ABS?

Warped or uneven brake rotors.

Good point! The ARP torque spec for head bolts is 85 ft/lbs for moly and 110 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil, but there is an exception. ARP recommends a 75 ft/lb spec w/ moly for bolts on an aluminum head (like ours). I never have figured out why that is true for bolts but not studs. I called ARP...