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Natan - Look at it from an engineering standpoint. Strut bars add stiffness to the chassis perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the car...the biggest effect is if you have a front and rear strut bar. What this does is reduce perceived roll inside the cockpit due to less chassis flex along...

Actually you should have said "if it has no pressure source"...there is no vacuum going to the wastegate actuator ;)

Derk - You are correct about the AF. Officer accessions is pretty much limited to the USAFA and AFROTC right now due to the "Force Shaping" that's going on. The Marines and Army are different. A big source of officers for the Marines is the OCS route...they get limited numbers from the USNA...

It's pressure not vacuum that causes the wategate actuator to function...its source is located on the turbo compressor housing. That why the bleed type MBC's work. They bleed off some of the pressure to prevent the wastegate from opening to allow a higher boost level.

That's easy...take the MBC out of the loop and do a test run. Your boost will be lower, but what you are looking for is consistent boost as you shift through the gears.

Roy - Some soldiers have been extended on their SW Asia tours. It's not as common now, but you can expect to be deployed for at least a year. As stated earlier in this thread...you cannot go directly into SF. It's a selective process and easier to be accepted if you are enlisted. There are...

The oil pressure sensor...the JDM one is incompatable and can fry your gauge. Yes, and no it is not tin. Yes. Make sure the EGR cooler is on the back of the head and the holes are not blocked. You want to change the gasket for the cooler as well...a leak here is difficult to fix once...

Actually this is pretty normal...you hit fuel cut...that is one of several fail safe modes the ECU has to protect the engine. Code 34 is Turbo Pressure Signal, what everyone calls fuel cut...it literally cuts the injectors off. When that happens, your boost is going to fall (like it did) until...

The key to any HG replacement (MHG or composite) is proper block/head deck prep, torque to ARP spec (or 70-75 ft/lbs on Toyota bolts), and a GOOD tune. I personally wouldn't go over 14-16 psi of boost on a composite gasket, but a lot of guys have. That's because they took the time/effort...

The spec sheet that came with the Titan MHG should tell you that ;) I know with the Cometic, the rivets have to be removed....the MHG is aligned with two dowel pins on the front/rear of the block. They index to holes in the head.

You won't see it on the front...it will seep out at where the head meets the front plate at the top. Here's where the RTV goes (it's called seal packing in the pic)...this is a top view: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=55 The RTV doesn't impact the...

Was the aluminum front plate machined when the block was decked? Did the shop use RTV on the top of the front plate? Take your plastic timing belt cover off and see if there is oil down the front.

Re-using a MHG with a spray coating is fine...it's when the viton is present there's a problem. Heck...using the spray on a composite HG is likely ok too ;)

I got a kind of rattle at 2000 rpm for a while. Turned out it was my downpipe against the tranny support...I wasn't using the brace for the DP that attaches to the tranny toward the engine. I but a big radiator clamp around the DP to the brace and no more rattle.

You still need to get all the rods dressed and checked for roundness. You may find your "good" rods are going to require an OS bearing as well. You might as well get them balanced with the pistons too ;)

That is correct ;) Fuel cut is triggered by airflow measured at the AFM...it has nothing to do with the psi the stock boost gauge is sensing at the manifold. Classic symtoms of a boost leak is hitting fuel cut (occurs at ~12 psi w/ stock AFM housing) and showing less on the boost gauge (say...

"Golf Claps" :naughty:

Code 14 is "No IGF signal to ECU 3 times (for turbo motor) in succession". A lot of things can cause it...igniter, poor igniter ground, coil pack, plug wires, plugs. Anything that prevents a spark from happening...any of these will cause the miss you're describing. It has to happen 3 times...

You shouldn't have to drain the coolant either...the lines are on top of the turbo and run to the water neck and back of the water pump housing. You will not lose much coolant, but I would plug the lines anyway.

Sometimes it seems we all go through some kind of "test" like this. Talking does help and keep in mind this too shall pass. Keep your chin up man!