Search results

And it fixed the shift problem in your 1st post?

It's only useful if it's a wideband...otherwise it's just a disco light ;)

I used AN-8 lines

Straight 30W motor oil ;) Using ARP hardware, I use the supplied moly for the threads.

Damn! $30! I don't remember paying that much for mine. In any case...think about it carefully. $30 for a hose or large $$$ for a head gasket in time and grief ;)

You need a Turbo ECU from an '88...yellow plugs. TEMS should not matter...ABS, that I'm not sure of.

Like Adjuster said...Cheap insurance. You might as well replace it, especially if it's been on there a while.

Just so you know...if that hose blows, you will lose ALL of your coolant in a very short time. If you're running on the highway, it will over heat to full scale in a second....before you notice anything is wrong. Mine did that on the old motor...I lost the HG shortly after...I'm pretty sure...

You'll need a 5 speed ECU...you are correct about the inputs. You can use a auto harness (same year) with a 5 speed ECU, but you can't use a 5 speed harness with an auto ECU. There are some other differences in the sensors (neutral start switch comes to mind).

I'll take that as a compliment :icon_bigg

If it's a composite or used MHG, that's fine...on a new MHG, no way. Every MHG maker specifically recommends against it due to what I said above.

Just burn em off with a Bic lighter...it's cheaper :runaway:

You can do this two ways...tap & thread or weld. There should be enough room...I would not remove the baffle. Use a drill press for the hole to tap. The downside is taps this size are kinda expensive if you don't already have one. Welding will work just as well or better...you will need an...

Ok...it'd called a "Timing Belt Case" in this picture...it bolts on the front of the block. The top edge is what I'm talking about....it it's higher than the block deck, it will not allow the head to apply the necessary pressure on the MHG to seal. You will not have to do anything to the head...

If it's a NEW MHG...do not use any kind of spray coating on it. The MHG has a factory coating already on it...a spray sealer can turn it into goo and the MHG may not seal as a result. Do a search...this has been beat to death ::dead horse::

With the front plate (aluminum casting w/ the water pump housing) installed on the block, the top should be level with or slightly below the block deck...check it! You should be able to see the machine marks on the top edge of the plate. Slide a flat plastic ruler across the front of the...

Don't know about the Huskey...I do know about the Craftsman; that's what I used on my ARP studs. You could alwys have one machined like Trannix did above, but the Craftsman worked fine for me. Use the ARP spec sheet that came in the box for torque. From memory, it's 81 ft/lbs using moly...

Craftsman 3/8" drive 14mm 12 pt socket w/ a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter to fit your torque wrench ;)

That's the easiest way...just get two new cam seals and make sure you torque the cam retainers in the TRSM sequence (yes...they have a sequence too ;) ).