Read the thread ;).
I dunno about his blood pressure but his oil pressure is fine. A bit high for my taste but within spec. What he really needs is to learn something about the car before he goes anywhere near it with tools.
If you're going to stay at stock boost or a bit more the stock gasket is fine. Use the spray on it. Not really needed but will fill in asperities. Chase the holes and clean them after. Stock bolts are fine but it's your call. Contrary to popular belief you can reuse the old ones if they haven't...
Yeah, it's not something you'd do often but nice to know. I roll almost all of my own gaskets these days but in a pinch tacking some line around a clean surface with a few drops of super glue (go inside the bolt holes) and slapping it on usually works fine on everything from oil to coolant...
I was assuming the connection was good. If not it'll only get worse with time as it burns up. I once had this same problem with another car where the owner had to hold the key to start for several seconds before any cranking occured. It turned out to be bad starter solenoid. Bad brushes will do...
All the stuff suggested here works fine as long the job is done right. There's no need for special dealer stuff. It's not rocket science, all you're doing is sealing between two surfaces. There's lots of ways to skin that cat. Do you know how the crankcase halves in piston airplane engines are...
Gotta go with SH on this. I guess it would depend on how long it sits but even after it's completely set up (which takes longer than an hour) it becomes little different than any elastomer type gasket. It'll still extrude inside the joint. If I can't clean off the excess I let all viscous...
What suprahooked said. You can even use a pan gasket. I've never used FIPG on these pans and had a one leak. My own is still dry after 8 years. Those who claim pan gaskets leak don't know how to prep and install them. If you're dead set on using sealant try Permatex Right Stuff. Can be had at...
Sounds like a starter problem to me. Likely worn brushes, solenoid contact, or bad power/grounding. Weak FL? Reminds me of a guy I used to work with years ago. He was a believer in weak fuses. I never did get him to see the problem with that ;)
It doesn't lean the mixture. All it does is allow the engine to breathe at idle. In most EFI systems the throttle plate is fully closed there. Obviously the engine still needs to get air if the throttle plate is closed or it can't run. The ISC bypass path supplies that air. It's a shortcut...
If you defeat the ISC you'll loose all the benefits of automatic idle speed control. You'll also have to provide another bypass path for idle air. If you have an older throttle body with an idle passage you can use that. If not you can crack the throttle itself. Where people get into trouble...
I'm still reeling from reading the "stalling after sfac" thread so forgive me if seem confused. What oil pressure conundrum? 15 at idle and 45-55 at cruise? That's a conundrum?
I'm puzzled by your hose question too. Putting confusion about what it does aside if you see an obviously defective...
This dick will take that bet because if the TPS wasn't set correctly you'd have a code. It's why I asked. See, I've forgotten more about the ECU than you'll ever know.
"My CPS is set up exactly to TSRM specs and verified with two pictures of reference"? Lol well, that's what rote monkeys do...
Sigh. Another rote monkey. Must be from all that head spinning. Consider this: if the CPS didn't have the bracket and the wires were long enough to spin it throughout 360 degrees do you think it could solve the problem?
Nope, I'm not going to explain it even if he is mistaken and I'm not trying to make him look ignorant. Since the Geezer lifted himself out of a self induced stupor concerning oil he's earned a measure of respect. You on the other hand....;)
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