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Then your research was off. It's not an AFM code.

Kinda hard to decipher your timing post but from what I gathered no, it's not right. If it's not 10 with the jumper in it's not right.

That's what I'm saying. I want you to check the continuity between IDL and E with the lever closed and at 7 o'clock. It should be infinity at 7 and less than 2K at rest. Most TPSes will be much lower, around 50 ohms. Mine is 10 ohms. The TPS needs be below a certain amount of resistance to pull...

What part of "place the TPS on a table with the connector facing left and the TB part with the little lever facing up" don't you understand? Did I mention the throttle body? I said the TB *part* of the TPS. The part that goes into the TB. I wasn't going to mention it at all because it's so damn...

Uh, if you knew how to do this stuff you wouldn't be having the problem you're having. I don't trust anything you're doing which is why I explained it. 4.20 what? Ohms? K Ohms? If you really have 1.16 volts between IDL and battery negative you've got wiring or ECU problems. You've got to be...

You have an NA motor right? A lack if VS will cause the symptom you describe. Think bad wiring.

Setting the timing wrong ;)

Yes, with the hose off. Looks like you have a different issue. Can't get a crow's foot in there from the back? If not go buy a cheap puller. That said bryanintexas makes an excellent point. edit: turns with the fitting? I don't get it. Hold the line and back the banjo out.

Huh. I've pulled that fitting with the pulley on and the pump in the car. Piece of cake.

Did you start the engine or did you get a 41 without starting? Did you clear all codes before you did this test? I have no idea how old that 41 is. Assuming you did what I said correctly and had a good connection on the jumper either the wiring is bad between the TPS connector and ECU, the AC...

He could be getting a 41 but that would only happen if the engine was run. If so he's looking in the wrong place. He needs to check the other part of the TPS. More likely he means a 51. Just needs to read more carefully. Maybe he's waiting on a promotion to Rote Monkey: ;)...

41? You gotta be kidding me...

Lol, screw yourself a lot do you? It's not really a part that should be bought used even though people do. Especially those Taiwan ones ;). And yes, it sounds like you're doing something wrong. Test it off the car and test both sections. When you find one that works it's easier to set it up...

I recently did an engine using a stock gasket and studs torqued to 80. Probably has only about 800 miles on it by now but I expect zero problems. My car has 40K since rebuild. From what I've seen the main reason for repeat BHG is either shoddy work by inexperienced people or pushing the engine...

At last. Well said too. Prompts me to expand a bit on what I mentioned above: Knock codes (52 and 53) aren't set in memory until the engine has been run for a certain amount of time and above a certain rpm. In addition knock faults won't shut off the MIL if the condition that caused them should...

Yeah, B/B1 are hot whenever the main relay is closed, which happens when the key is on. The wiring will be fine as long as it's fused. I'm just anal. Years of working with aircraft and industrial automation taught me to be careful where I pick power from when adding things. Good design practice...

Stock current changes with resistance. Goes down as the heater gets hot. Worst case on the stock sensor is around 4 amps IIRC. Newer sensors people often use are less because the heater is smaller and more efficient. 5 or a bit more amps for the fuse ought to be just about right. edit: OK @14...

Agreed. Steppers are the best way to do this type of thing. It's why the stock ECU can hold idle within 20 rpm. By keeping the valve he'll retain all of the ISC system's benefits ie; ramped warm up, idle up for headlight, AC, defogger, etc. Imho it beats cracking the throttle plate but to each...

I remain confused by the whole CPS thing. If you didn't want to take it back out after installing it wrong using your mark didn't it occur you'd have to take it back out anyway after turning the crank? It's more work to end up doing the same task. Makes no sense unless you were blindly following...

Ugh, now that's some funky advice. To the OP: Fwiw the behavior you're seeing is normal. The diagnostic system handles knock codes in a special way. You still need to fix the problem though.