Expertise? We're talking simple shit here. Simpler than changing your oil. I'll never understand how people can work on cars and yet refuse to learn even the most basic of electrical troubleshooting techniques. Especially when even a car this old is so dependent on them. Yet they'll study all...
Yeah, the ports are on the TB. Big one on the side, two small ones on the top. That's assuming you still have the factory emissions gear in use.
ISCV gasket can be reused but it's of good practice to replace any gasket. You don't need a Toyota part, just buy a sheet of gasket material at the...
Yep, that's the Idle Speed Control valve. It could probably use a cleaning too. You have to pull the entire thing. Two bolts. If you pull it be sure not to lose the boost check valve in the manifold. Seems they can fall out unnoticed as I've worked on cars where they were MIA.
Pulling the TB...
5W is thin at warm up so he should get a 10-40? Good grief, does it ever end?
The stock gage isn't that accurate Johnathan. Mine never goes about the second line when hot. I've never lost sleep over it. Not to mention these days I'm running a 5w-20. With your engine a 5W-40 would be fine. For...
I've washed this engine dozens of times using those coin operated car wash wands back in the days when they wouldn't arrest your ass for it. These days I use the hose at home after a solvent gun pushing a mild degreasing agent. The only problems I've ever had was an occasional misfire with...
Lmao...beat me too it. Hey IJ, how many engines have you washed over the years without problem? If you're like me I've lost count. It's all in the technique.
Yes, you're going about it the right way. The 51 is because IDL and E2 are open. They need to be closed when the throttle is closed so that the ECU will enable the idle speed control system, among other things. The code 41 is cause by the other part of the TPS, the part that reports throttle...
How can such a simple circuit be so difficult to diagnose? I suggest you get a meter and learn how to use it. Assuming it's not the starter a simple voltage drop test will instantly find the source of the problem.
No can read the book Monsewer? The VSV is for increasing fuel pressure during hot starts. You can remove/bypass it if you wish but as was pointed out the FPR must be connected to the manifold. You may or may not suffer hot start issues depending on several things.
And it's "vacuum". Think 2 U...
Not sure I understand that but if you're saying what I think you're saying that'll do absolutely nothing to improve starting. The cold start system doesn't operate until the key is turned to start. Neither does the fuel pump.
The ground (E2) is OK. IDL is screwy though. I might be overlooking something so until I can verify things forget about it for now. Get one of the TPS checked out and we'll go from there. You're going to need one no matter what.
Thanks for the PM Robert. Glad it all worked out. Fwiw knock a code is usually the result of open wiring/bad grounding. Search this site for rewiring info, especially from member Shaeff, and be advised the knock code is not simply advisory in nature. The engine's performance will be impacted as...
Works the same way as does the coolant tank sensor. The float contains a magnet and the stem contains a reed switch:
http://tinyurl.com/nd9pr
Together they comprise a float switch, one of the most common forms of liquid level detectors. Here's a bit about them from Machine Design, a magazine I...
See the little 3 notation? Look at the next page. The fact it refers to VS is another tip off. Your engine doesn't have a VS signal because it has a Karman Vortex AFM. Try here for a better example:
http://tinyurl.com/2p447u
The HAC sensor biases the THA (air temp) signal from the AFM. It...
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