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It's the juice! ;) http://tinyurl.com/962k8

When the sensor signal is lost the ECU defaults to slightly rich. Around .95 lambda. The sensor can be tested on or off the car. All you need is a meter and a propane torch for either test. Try not to set anything on fire ;)

They need to be straight up with the crank at zero. If they were off to the right and the crank was at zero after two revs it's wrong. One problem I've seen is how the timing cover is sloppy in it's mounting holes. That can lead to the marks being shifted a little. The cover must be level to the...

Hmmm. In theory since the secondary doesn't operate as a DC series circuit one plug should continue to fire even if it's companion is open. You could also mount the second plug in another engine with no connection between the two cars (other than the single plug wire) and both plugs would fire...

Unplug the box. If the fuse doesn't blow then leave it unplugged and add a jumper to the connector. Simple.

Suicide is painless.....

Yeah, it would. Did you turn turn engine over 720 degrees and see if the marks lined up again like the book says to do?

And as you know the IM240 is not a piece of cake to pass. The cutoff points may be higher than Cali but the test is more demanding. Reminds me, the correct spelling is the People's Republik of Kalfornia ;)

Amazing. Maybe we should go down there and adjust it while he relaxes in a hammock with a mint julep...

One needs to be careful concerning cause and effect. The root cause of your problem has to be located elsewhere. For example whenever you check a coil pack primary winding be sure to also check for shorting to the core as per the TRSM. Don't use body ground for this, use a mounting screw. Even...

Gotta love the CPS wiring ;)

IGt is the signal the ECU sends to the igniter to fire the coil packs. If the tach is flickering he has IGt. He ought to check the two other signals the ECU sends for identifying each cylinder but I'm guessing he has them. Your first post says he has no spark but it sounds to me like the...

http://tinyurl.com/2wqajr I'd like to help him but if he can't signal trace he's stuck winging it. CEL on with key on? Than the ECU is powered. If not be sure it's grounded at the intake manifold. Make sure the igniter is grounded. It must be bolted to the body or it won't work. Treat the...

Generally speaking you should use whatever oil gives 10-12 psi per 1000 rpm with a hot viscosity of 10-12 centistokes. As the engine wears the viscosity will need to be changed. In high power applications an oil with a good boundary additive package should be used as it'll be the last line of...

It is getting a bit scary eh? Just that I've run into people who've sworn they've always done the CPS that way and it always worked. Like I said, go figure. If guys would stop blindly following the book and get a grip on how the engine works we'd see far less "no start" threads. It's no...

Sounds to me you may be using a can to compensate for a worn motor. Be sure blowby isn't excessive. That you blew seals is a sign of something more wrong than a lack of positive ventilation. Even then usually the dipstick will pop out before seals let go. You can either duplicate the stock...

Make sure the CPS is set right. I keep running into people who think as long as the engine is at TDC the CPS can just be stuffed in any old way. Go figure.

Down to 10-40 huh? I don't believe it. Who says miracles don't happen? ;) You need some pressure otherwise there can be no flow. However the longer oil stays in a cyclically loaded journal bearing operating with a hydrodynamic wedge the closer it comes to being destroyed by the heat and forces...

Oh settle down Aaron. We're just playin'. I could add quite a bit but experience has shown you're resistant to change. If you think this is a good thing (like thick oil) then go for it. As long as you don't do it on my car I couldn't care less.

Mo is betta! Close off the system, dead head the pump. Bleed a little off to avoid bustin' something. That should work ;)