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LOL...fuel pump flow has nothing to do with mph...fuel pressure does and the size injectors does. Comparing an MR2 to a Supra is apples to oranges.

Well, I can assue you if your radiator is clogged along the bottom, it's a major contributer to your problem. I'd get the coolant system pressure tested. Check your oil cap for milky oil just in case.

This one?

It doesn't cost as much as a Fluidyne or PWR, but it's not cheap either...~$300. It's a full aluminum race radiator, dual core and it drops right in...I've got one and really like it. Saved my bacon a couple of times...including when my thermostat stuck ;) BTW...compare the Stant...

There's a reason for that...don't give NashMan grief on his spelling...Ok! I have an SP61...boost comes on hard at 2800-3000 rpm (depending on OAT)...full boost at 3500 rpm.

Is it a CT26 Turbo and is it upgraded?

About 21 mpg...if I keep my foot out of it :biglaugh: Got a Walbro as well.

On a healthy cooling system...it is ;)

I got a thermostat from Toyota about a year ago that was sticking like this...it did it randomly and never did figure out why. I replaced the damn thing. You're getting such a variation in temps due to your radiator...a clogged one will do that depending on load conditions and outside air...

MDCmotorsports does turbo rebuilds/upgrades...Jon's in the vendors section. If you're not going to do a lot to the motor, a CT26 w/ a 57mm compressor wheel should suit you fine.

Aaron - you speak the truth ;) I'm not trying to give anyone a hard time either...afterall, it is his motor and his $$$. You can lead the horse to water, but you can't make him drink.

You know...having the crank checked out and polishing the journals is just not that expensive. If the $$$ is that tight, would it not make more sense to have it done so it will not be a problem in the future? Having to do it again will cost basically double your overall cost...pretty simple...

Change out the plugs and wires...let us know if it helps. ;)

If you use the NGK's, run the BCPR7ES...they should work fine for that amount of boost. A .030" should be fine as well. You'll have to change out the coppers more ofter than the platimums or iridums, but they seeem to work the best in this motor (Autolites too). BTW - if you don't have an...

Me too Aaron...you were dead right about honing the cylinders and new rings too. Just do it right and do it once is such a simple concept too....:3d_frown:

Yes...get new plugs...how much boost are you running? Hi boost = colder plug. Another option is the Autolite 3923. And change the wires...MSD is good for the $$$. Here's the cheapest place I've found them (gonna get some myself): http://www.fasterthanthem.com/product.php?productid=59137...

No...the BCPR7ES is the colder one. NGK does it backwards ;)

Ok...first things first...make absolutely sure this ^^^ is done Then... Get a wideband!!! Playing with the fuel delivery without being able to see what's happening to AFR is like a blind man playing with dynamite and matches. Really consider getting an upgraded fuel pump. If you go lean...

You're welcome ;) Sure, you could do a tempory fix. All you should have to replace are the 4 CPS wires...loss of both G1 & G2 signals or the NE signal is one of the few things that will cause a no start or shut the motor down (code 34 is another...fuel cut).

Drop your FP to 25-30 psi with the vac line connected ;) Easy to do...Give it a try without doing anything else and report back.