That is your EGR valve modulator...the vac source is on top of the throttle body and is routed down the hardline to the VSV shown in the pic on the back lower part of the intake manifold. The VSV should be closed at idle or with no power on the car....no vacuum should be present at the...
We couldn't add to Aaron's rep...wanted to for his comment on flow vs psi, but couldn't because we gave him rep on a previous post and can't do it again until "spreading some around". It's the icon in the middle below the screen name.
FYI - if you want to play with the dynamic compression calculator I posted above, the Inlet Valve Closes ABDC value is 38 deg. The rest of the info required is also in the above post. You can use the static compression ratio for the pistons or run the static compression calculator to get more...
You are correct Larry, timing is a big component...I don't think it's more important than fuel however. That would require a more in-depth discussion of dynamic compression ratio....that's why I touched on it, but really didn't want to write a novel. Static compression ratio was sufficient to...
The most restrictive diameter in the system will determine the flow...Bernoulli's Law in effect here ;)
Play with the calculator I posted to see the effect.
If you know a good aluminum welder, changing the inlet/outlet pipes on the Cartech will work. Then your TB becomes the restriction...
Here's a calculator that might help:
http://not2fast.com/gasflow/velocity.shtml
The most restrictive part of the turbo to intake (including the TB) will determine the diameter used...in case you need to know, the TB is 60mm = 2.36" You'll also need to know the CFM of your turbo at a set...
There's more to it when you select a type and size MHG. The thickness MHG, brand of piston, and boost impacts compression pressure in the cylinders. You need to realize what pistons you choose and the machine work on the head/block does.
The stock piston size is 83mm...for each 0.020"...
The upper ball joint is part of the upper suspension arm. The lower ball joints are usually the ones that wear out...they carry much more stress from the suspension.
Yeah...change the plugs. NGK BCPR6ES for the coppers or get NGK iridiums (they are not cheap). Gap depends on boost...0.031'" is fine for stock boost....0.028" is good for 10-12 psi or so. Wires are your call...I'm using MSD wires. Check the resistance on the ones you have...25 K ohms is max.
I'd go 75 ft/lbs and no higher...ARP recommends 75 ft/lbs (w/ moly) on their head bolts when used on an aluminum head. They back off the 85 ft/lbs normally specified in this case due to the heat expansion rate of aluminum. Toyota head bolts should be no different...other than the strength of...
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