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If it won't shift with the ETC unplugged doing it manually, yes it's mechanical. The overdrive should work shifting manually. Take a look at the TRSM for more info.

The ECT controls the shift points. The throttle postion cable (kick down) controls line pressure...it affects how smooth the shift is.

Nah...won't mess it up. Takes some getting used to though having to shift an auto manually. Keep the rpm down in L1 and L2. It has one connector, the label has "7M-GTE" in big letters and "ECT" in smaller letters at the lot of the label.

Yeah, my Blitz was a little long...just had to bend the hangers a bit on the back and it fit right up. It's not that loud...at least until you get on it :evil2: In AZ, we don't have to worry too much about the loudness...in fact, I had a cop pull me over cause he wanted to see what I had...

He nailed it...it's called a manual shift test in the TRSM. My ECT ECU failed and I was getting all kind of shift weirdness...unplugged it and was able to get around till I figured it out. With the ETC unplugged, you are the ECU ;) And it is behind the passenger side kick panel.

I've done a little research on that oil (Evolution SRX 5W30)...from what I can tell it's a boutique oil. It's a Group IV (pao) base stock or a Group IV/V blend. That makes it similar to the German Castrol synthetic. I can't find any info on the additive pack though, but it's a very good base...

You're not that far off ;) What you are doing by torquing to spec, loosening, torquing, etc for the five passes is overcoming the friction coefficient of the threads for the most accurate torque reading. There is no need to heat cycle the engine in between passes...this is just to get the...

Oh...I meant to ask. You running 550's? No problem running out on the fuel side?

I am...oh yeah I am :evil2: Change that pipe to 2.5" too...like I need to tell ya that...LOL ;)

Yeah...I would. Like I said, what's the down side?...not a heck of a lot other than the cost of pipe and time to TIG. See what it does for you...if it's still not meeting your expectations, start looking at other mods. I bet you get a HP gain...how much is the question ;) Are you running...

I don't think it looks bad at all...get a piece of 4 ply blue silicone turbo piping and replace that black section though and use T-clamps there as well. Replace that upper radiator hose while you're at it...lol ;)

If you look at the links, the part number (MT3090) is the same for both...not sure why Titan did it this way, but I think they're the same exhaust.

That's actually that's the problem...neither way is good. Take all the bolts out and you risk compromising the HG seal. Do them one at a time and you risk warping the head. Of the two choices (on a cold head), the warpage issue is the least risk IMO...after all, guys have gone in to do a...

Yeah, if he wants to replace them, one at a time is about the only way to go. Might not have to though...depends on the previous torque on the bolts. Toyota bolts don't tolerate stretch in terms of retaining bolt strength as well as ARP. It's actually the opposite...you always want to...

Mike - I'm not sure if that map accurately depicts your set-up...it's a combination of the wheel and the housing. You are flowing about 65 lbs/min to get to the HP numbers you have. On this map at that flow and pressure ratio (24 psi / 14.7 SL atmospheric pressure = 1.63), that flow is to the...

I think you meant 75 lb/min ;) That is equal to 930 CFM...yes, that will over flow the Cartech if it's the one I'm thinking about. You have the 18" x 8" x 3" bar & plate intercooler, correct? The 75 lb/min may be at the max psi the compressor is capable of...you're are running 24 psi (or...

Mike - were you able to find a compressor map for your Boss Turbo? What intercooler and how much CFM capacity did Cartech advise you go to?

Ahhh...you didn't say that ;) The marks should align then...why don't you post a pic. Both the crank pulley and the gears.

Did you mark the direction of rotation on the belt? ;) If you didn't (the TRSM calls for it when reusing a belt), you can get this problem. Timing belts can stretch slightly, but will look good to the naked eye...might want to think about getting a new belt. Check the tensioner as well.

The problem is when you take the old head bolts out, the clamping force is released and that can affect the HG seal. Before you removed your old HG, what torque was on the head bolts?