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The way a multigrade works is this: For a 10W-60, the 1st number is the viscosity of the oil cold, the 2nd number is the viscosity of the oil at 100 deg C...operating temp for most motors. That's the way the oil is formulated to run...you are running a 60W oil (in this example) when your motor...

Replacing the seals shouldn't be too hard...on the front, you would just need to know the crank bolt and cam gear bolt torque to replace those seals. The back has to have the tranny off to get to the seal...don't know about the 1J, but the 7M rear crank seal is in it's own housing. And...

You probably will have to remove the radiator for clearance to get the impact on the crank bolt...I had to. Also, might be a good time to change your crank seal while you got all that off...especially if you got a oil seep going on ;)

Heck...I love the way the Blitz sounds. My daughter tells me she can hear me coming when I pick her up at school...and, you get to scare dogs, cats, old ladies, small children. LOL....:evil2:

Put full synthetic in that 1J...German Castrol 0W-30 would be an excellent choice too and likely cheaper than the Elf. I think you can even get it at Wal-Mart up in Canada (it's only at AutoZone here in the US). The front label has "European Formula" on the front and "made in Germany" on the...

CK came back from the Dark Side?!?!

Coating one of those too as part of this batch :naughty:

Got em mostly prep'ed...need to cook them in the oven to make sure all the oil is out of the metal and bead blast again. Gotta go out today though bouncing around the country till Friday evening. Hope to get them done early next week...depends on what the AF Reserves has planned for me before...

Tribology?!?! Damn that's a big word...:icon_eek: LOL...Thanks man! And you're welcome ;) Sometimes I feel like the Dutch Boy with the finger in the dike...hope it helps.

Porter - I know the answer to this one myself ;) You can pretty much forget about getting any help from the old heads here until you make it right with PhiDelt109 and he posts you made it right. What goes around, comes around Porter...might want to think about that.

:3d_frown: And the 50W oil myth simply will not die...you seriously need to do some more research man. But...your motor...use whatever makes you feel good. Edit: I pretty much spelled out why a 50W oil is not optimal in this thread (beginning at post #80)...it's based on a lot of...

Want easy? ;) http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_removers/auto_Permatex_Gasket_Remover.htm

LOL...wish I could man. I'm lucky to get what I can from my buddy ;) I would never use a 50W oil in my motor...max would be 10W-40 and that would be on a high milage engine starting to feel the wear & tear. IMO, a 0W-30 or 5W-30 fully synthetic oils are great to use in the 7M....flows well...

ma71 - Thanks :) I was stationed at MacDill AFB in Tampa a while back...SOCOM (Special Ops Command) is there and I got to be friends with some of those guys. Went out to the range numerous times and played with their "toys"...grenade launchers, suppressed weapons, full auto MP-5's, etc. A...

Hey...I'm sure that will work just as well. The only thing is the hassle pulling the valve covers off every day ;) To me, the five passes is over kill. When I built my new motor I did 3 passes to torque the studs, let the car get about 500 miles on it, changed the oil and re-torqued the head...

The power for windows, door locks, and seats is supplied by the Power Circuit Breaker...it's on Relay Block #5 under the driver's kick panel to the right of the fuse block. The relay block has on it (top to bottom) Turn Signal Flasher, Power Main Relay, Power Circuit Breaker, and Horn Relay...

Suppressor envy? LOL....:runaway:

Got an IPT myself...barks the tires shifting 1st to 2nd. Kinda pricey, but so far it's held up extremely well.

No...you will never see a suppressor (that's the correct term) on a revolver. The space between the barrel and cylinder makes it impossible. With a well made suppressor, you hear a mechanical sound...the hammer falling and the slide ejecting/chambering another round. Sounds like a loud...

Well, before you do that, you might want to do these tests: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AT&Page=25