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Ok...take a good close look at the wiring both going into the CPS and going across the top of the motor. Wiggle it around some and try a start. If the loose wire is off the AFM, the car should still start...you can start it without the AFM connected at all. Runs like crap, but it will start.

Also check the Pos connection to the harness under the fuse box and the one to the starter just for grins ;)

Were you using a SAFC?

Nick - Are you saying that speed density is inferior to the Karmen Vortex in the USDM 7M motor? Or is it just a different method to do the same thing?

Ok...take a look at this pic. The connector on the CPS, does it have 4 harness wires (Red, Black, Yellow, and Blue) going to the connector that mates to the one in the pic?

Ok...check the grounds from the battery to the block and chassis. There is also a set of grounds that attaches to the intake manifold outside on the #3 runner...make sure thes are clean and secure.

Could be the water lines to your turbo (assuming a CT26) or the small 90 deg hose from the back/bottom of the water neck to the hard line that goes around the block. There's also your bottom rad hose.

Well...I can pretty much assure you it's not the rheostat ;) Does the car start Oliver?

The connector on the CPS is on top...4 wires...the wiring harness side is Red, Blue, Black, and Yellow. I don't think those are to the CPS...I think ^^^ he's correct...a sensor on the water neck or thermo housing.

As the TRSM says, Code 12 is the CPS...this is likely the cause of your no-start. Check the wiring and connection to the CPS. The TRSM has a procedure to test resistance for the CPS as well. It's likely the wiring though...wiggle the connector and check the wiring going across the front top...

Does the car start? If it starts, do the gauges work? What is and is not powered in the car...need to be specific. Electrical problems are difficult to diagnose anyway, online like this makes it even harder. The fuse blocks are in the engine bay and under the drivers kick panel...check...

"Joker Fuel" - do you know what that term means in military aviation?

If the CPS O-ring was twisted, torn, re-used old, or left off...it can leak. The oil would run below the CPS and then who knows where else. At highway speed, I guess the oil could be blown around all over that side of the motor, but I'm just speculating. Look to see if the head/block is wet...

Other than what's already been suggested, the only thing I can think of is the CPS O-ring (since it was worked on). It shouldn't spray oil all over the place like that, but if they left it off, it would be a pretty good leak.

Check and make sure your AFM, O2 sensor, and CPS are all plugged in correctly. Check for codes. Did you happen to clean the inside of the AFM and sensor?

Some more info for ya ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1986

I had to change the wire on the CPS itself to the connector and the wires from the connector across the top of the motor to where the harness turns down behind the alternator. The heat from the motor takes a toll over the years on the wiring insulation. When I rebuilt my motor, I got a new...

With the electronic fuel controllers...yes you can. You are still "fooling" the ECU concerning the amount of air flow the AFM is sensing. You will need to be careful tuning it. More than one guy who has done it this way has leaned the motor out at high rpm and...BANG...detonation ;) On a...