Search results

Not car. Boat. At the end of an anchor chain ;)

No, you're not reading dub wrong. Just that I'm not as locked into that belief as he is. I used to feel that way too but no longer. He's just being conservative. As mentioned PP is good. It's what I'm currently using in a 5-20. These days I buy oil based on sales and promotions. That way I get...

Try AZs in, err, economically depressed neighborhoods. It's an old trick I used to use back in the days before most people ever heard of the stuff. It usually sits on the shelf collecting dust because people who live in such areas won't pay it's price. Not that many middle class folks bought it...

I don't want to open the oil can of worms again but there are differences. If I had to rate 'em RP would be at the bottom with RL on top. RP is a decent oil, just somewhat of a lousy value. As you said, it's overpriced. Besides, basestock does not an oil make. I've never been impressed with...

Me thinks you're worried about nothing but if you want to do analysis you have to leave the oil in there at least 1K miles. That said I'll never understand why people pay a premium for so-so oil like RP when there are better out there.

While I'm with Aaron on the possible cause (a few months ago I repaired a car that had the same symptoms with the same cause) if I were you I'd test it first. A quick way of doing that is to jump the FP terminal in the diagnostic block and drive the car. If the problem remains it's not the...

Damned if I can find the upper piece that came off my car. I know it's around here somewhere. Fwiw I used a set screw mounted knob. A leather Momo I believe. Considering I have a $3K tig welder I must've been lazy back then. Been on there 10 years and never loosened. The key is dimpling the...

I've no dog in this fight but I just measured a lever I have lying around from a MKII. My thread pitch gauge shows it to be 1.25

As soon as the exhaust manifold comes off it'll be obvious. It's directly below the manifold's rear end. You can even see it with a flashlight and a little effort but an inspection mirror makes things a lot easier. Looks like a bolt in the block. On most engines it's a form of petcock so all you...

All this does is pilot the starter solenoid in exactly the same as the car's stock circuit. To make matters worse it's not even bypassing the stock circuit where the single point of high resistance lies. It's still being used, just that now it doesn't have to deliver the same current as before...

Better to find it before you take the head off. I see too many photos of headless blocks with coolant in the jackets. Sloppy technique ;)

Pax side, below the exhaust manifold to the rear. I dunno about NA cars but it's not accessible from the top on turbo motors. Getting a ratchet in there when hot is a pain. That's why a petcock is nice. Just reach under and open it up. I use the 90 degree style so it doesn't piss hot coolant on...

What's up with that? Just when I thought I'd heard it all.

Gotta be mighty small ones to get into that little hole ;). I can't envision what mechanism might be the cause of them failing as long as they're stored in a clean dry place. My spare has been sitting around for 20 years and the last time I checked (a year ago) it was as good as new.

Why would they go bad sitting around? Elves?

It's on the other side. I replace them with a petcock. Sure makes things easier, especially on turbo cars. If the problem is heavy scaling and deposits the best thing to use is Prestone Heavy Duty Cleaner. The two part powdered stuff with neutralizer. You may not be able to find it depending on...

You're a good sport rich ;). Not to be picky but I believe ammonia gas is usually used in nitriding. At least that's the process I'm familiar with.

Sounds like an intermittent connection in the engine compartment that opens with the vibration/torque caused by making high power. Since the ecu can detect even the slightest loss you need to be critical when checking. Check the manifold grounds as mentioned and inspect the wiring loom. Pay...

Mmmm....hot dogs. Forget nitriding, I wanna know how that induction heating by flame thing works ;)

It's impossible for the engine to run with a loss of power to the ECU so it's either that or you have additional problems that can't be read because other codes will not display until 11 is corrected. The cause can be found using a multimeter. If you don't know the techniques for doing it simply...