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Yeah, check for continuity of IGf from the igniter back to the ECU.

From the documentation I have it's the same for all TCCS models: loss of IGf.

Doward, open it up and look for toasted paths. Also be sure it's getting power on pin 2 when the key is on. If the ICs are good it should be easy to repair. That said I often see the things on ebay for cheap.

What tissmo said. Be sure you connect the right coil to it though. The COR has two, one that connects to the starting circuit and the other that connects to fuel control.

Each burn out resistor denotes a channel. As 3p said each channel is a comparator circuit with one side connected to a reference voltage and the other connected through the burn out resistor. The output of each channel is connected to an OR gate. The output of the OR gate drives a transistor...

I'll have to look. I think it's the one on the right, the one with the jumper. I need to look at the schematic. As I said it's been a looong time. The monitoring circuit itself usually doesn't fail, the high current path to the lamps does. Btw see those loops? They're test points.

Been 17 years since I modded mine to work with a custom strobe I replaced the CHMSL with. I used a decade box to find the resistance needed. That strobe is long gone but the LFM was never returned to stock. Fwiw they fail in a certain way that can be prevented by strengthening a particular...

Code 11 is a fault in the ECU power supply. No other codes will be displayed until it's resolved. Good doggie.....

A little tip for no crank situations: Remove the EFI fuse and listen for a click from the passenger footwell each time the key is turned to start. If the click is there the problem lies in either the NSW or starter. With a manual tranny the problem will be in the starter. Assuming a good battery...

Just be sure an analog is high impedance or it'll be limited for working on the EFI system. Not many of those meters around these days. Dunckel: Get something with an analog bar graph, frequency, and Min/Max/Average recording. 4000 or 5000 count is nice too. Slide: No, it was in AC volts and...

My insight is don't put a meter in your lap when working with 440 three phase ;) It'd been connected for a few minutes when it beeped once and then spontaneously disassembled itself. Blew the case clean apart. Safety glasses FTW. Only casualty besides the meter was a pair of skivvies. IIRC the...

It did. Not a problem though ;)

It would've killed an ordinary man ;). Was sitting on the floor with it in my lap while across a couple of 440 legs when it went boom. Got my attention I tell ya.

What Justin said. You could do worse than John Fluke. Much worse. The 87V is my current favorite but you can go cheaper. Whatever you get study up on how to use it. And yes, most Flukes beep. I had one beep just before it exploded in my lap...

You're going about it wrong. There are better ways to find vacuum leaks. Boost leaks maybe no but vacuum leaks yes. From what I see you're pumping air into the engine. It'll go past whatever valves are open, past the rings and up through the crankcase vent into the valve covers then out through...

Since the code 51 confusion continues by those just learning here's an easily found (by searching) post and one people can point others too. First some background. I'll try to keep it simple. The ECU is stupid. All it knows is what programming tells it to do. It's programmed to flash code 51...

Yes, although it may seem otherwise at times. All Toyotas follow a color scheme according to system. The basic wire color indicates the system to which it belongs while stripe color is used to distinguish one system from another. For example black is used for the starting, ignition, and fuel...

Well, the green is +12. The white/green stripe is the controlled ground for the combo meter lighting and the white/black stripe is ground. If you want your meter to stay full bright wire to the green and white/black stripe. If you want it to dim with the other lights wire to the green and the...

I'm confused. Why are you pressure testing the intake tract with it all connected to the engine? Why would you expect anything less than what you're seeing by doing it that way? And why are you doing it if the engine has only been run for 30 seconds?

I'll never understand how setting something as simple as a switch continues to baffle so many people. While you have it at Toyota have them look into the stuttering too because a TPS problem, especially the one you have, will definitely not cause it.