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^ Hmmm. Based on that if I were Merlyn I'd be worried....

Grrr. It's been years since I played with the thing so that's what I get for going on memory. That and thermistors aren't exactly known for their linearity. Yes, you're correct. I just put my spare on the bench and checked it. Those last few ohms sure make a difference. I also pulled the book...

Nice job 3p. The problem is with the sender. The temp gage itself is of the cross coil variety, one of the most accurate and fastest responding types out there. In fact it's so fast silicone oil is used to dampen it. The fuel gage is also cross coil. It's slow because it's a retaining type gage...

All the time. It's going to be retired within the year. As an aside it was 20 years today I bought the car. June 22, 1987 is the day I paid for and drove it off the dealers lot. I never thought I'd still be driving it today. 20 years as my DD with almost zero problems. Been the most reliable...

As Bishop pointed out the 2 wire on the side is for the EFI system. The others are for the temp gage, aux condenser fans, and AC high temp cutout. Fwiw my 87 has all of these.

http://tinyurl.com/2l2jxu Post #34. Go figure.

Put them in the way the book says. There's a reason if you think about it. As for the rest wow...just wow.

http://tinyurl.com/2zpawj Don't want to spend even that? Amble on down to the local pet store and buy a narrow range PH test kit for aquariums. 5 bucks. Take the test tube inside and fill it a third full of tap water. Add 2 or 3 drops of the chemical that came in the kit, cap and lightly shake...

As someone who owns a car with the radiator and engine at opposite ends I can tell you it involves a complicated mess of plumbing and has to be done right. Even then it causes occasional grief.

Don't get what? How to type something into Google? Here, lemme help ;) http://tinyurl.com/7tcs8 Also note the comment about the POR-15 product. Course, if someone's going to mess with their fogs just to look "cool" instead of actually improving the lighting forget I mentioned it.

Just joking AF. What I meant was dizzy is a term often used in Britain.

Dizzy is more english than you think. Maybe you need to get out of Jersey more ;)

Two words: selective yellow.

The D151802 is the same as Intel's automotive version of the 8751 series, part of the MCS51 family of 8 bit microcontrollers. I used to design with them using a Tektronix microprocessor development system and an 8X51 emulator pod. MDS systems are great. They beat data analyzers by miles for ease...

Exactly. The entire point of the test is to provide the proper two bit coil identification signal while triggering IGt and then look for the correct coil driver to momentarily switch on. It may seem confusing but as you said, reading comprehension is critical.

Just barely I might add. I would've been quicker but every time I need to find those threads I have to look your damn handle up because it's too confusing for me to remember ;) This stuff needs to be a sticky up in reference....

You again ;) Try these threads: http://tinyurl.com/2vh29d http://tinyurl.com/3yk6cx Post 22 and 23

Lol. Come on Shaeff, how could you have gotten this wrong? And here I thought you knew all about this stuff ;)

^ lol. Fwiw there are three failure modes to head gaskets. Only one will put coolant in the oil.

To answer your question the connector you found loose has nothing to do with your coolant level light. It's controlled by the magnetic float switch in the reservoir. Works like this except the one in the car is normally open: http://tinyurl.com/2krhw8