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Open it up further and look at the drive screw and holding plate. You should be able to see the shaft step. You can put a tie wrap with a long tail on it to amplify the movement. It has a lot more than 4 positions.

Yeah, that's it. What the problem you're having? Did you run the diagnostics? If so codes?

High pressure line alright. A common enough failure on these cars even though mine is original and leak free. You haven't had control of the PS system since day one the way I have though.

It's in the book. Look harder ;). It's the same place on 87s (under the dash on the left side). Btw, Toyota puts out a separate manual on the system. Not that you need more than whats in the TSRM to repair it but this manual explains in detail how it works. I happen to have one if you need to...

Guess I'll have to be the odd man out. I've used the Driftmotion kit and wasn't happy with it. Imo it's drawbacks aren't worth the supposed benefits. I would helicoil using the stock size with new studs and nuts.

Change the hose. Either buy a replacement or talk to Aaron at Driftmotion. As I recall he has a setup that'll work. If I were you I'd also flush the system and fill with synthetic Dexron V, something like Mobil One. Put a filter in there too. Google "magnefine".

Yeah, performance modding didn't exist back then. We all drove foot powered cars like the Flintstones. Used a NB to tune them too ;) Roy: Simply because there are better ways to do things these days.

All my stuff is done right at the ECU using Amp PDIG aerospace quality butt splices and the proper tooling for crimping them. Never had a problem. I'm not at all shy about cutting wires ;)

While it may disable the ABS you'll still get a light and store an error code by doing that. I suggest switching the ABS ecu grounds, pins 4 and 14. You can get them both with one wire down in the pax footwell on connector N1, pin 2. Edit: The above is what my 87 EWD shows. The online one shows...

I have to agree with him. Converting a stock regulator to adjustable isn't rocket science and there's no reason it should be any less reliable than an aftermarket one *if* it's done right. Fwiw back in the old days before we had all the goodies we have now I custom controlled my fuel pressure...

^ We have a winner. Funny how someone familiar with ABS would keep missing the hint. Course he could've just looked at the schematic...

If one is familiar with how ABS works and what it does one would have to ask oneself why such a system, especially a 20 year system, would require steering input.

Well, whatever you end up doing don't use the steering sensor.

Da, On govorit ochen xorosho. ;)

Not regulator, pulsation damper. It's on the supply line. Screw means nothing other than a way to tell if fuel pressure is present in the rail.

Look at the back of the cluster where the tach mounts. From top to bottom you'll see three screws labeled: 1) IGN - 2) Earth 3) IGN + Connect + 12 volts to IGN + Connect ground (battery negative or body ground) to Earth. Take a jumper from IGN + and several times touch or "rub" IGN - with...

It's a moving coil type ammeter tach and can be easily tested depending on a few things. Do you have the cluster in or out of the car? If out is the tach in or out of the cluster?

Well, I've had the car 20 years today and so far haven't had momentary pressure loss. Perhaps it's happened and I didn't see it but since I've never had rod knock I'm assuming it's never lost pressure. Besides, even if I had an faster gage I don't spend enough time looking at it to see anything.

You must have missed an earlier post where I calibrated my OP sender to solve a minor idle problem. I probably have the world's most accurate stock gage at this point. The gage itself has adjustments but messing with them is rarely needed. That said the OP gage and sender work on an entirely...

Kinda bitchy ain'tcha? Yes, they can be fixed.