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Yeah, don't be giving fuel control to that WB until you know it's OK. Too many variables involved there. Myself, I'm not a fan of doing that anyway although lots of people do. Yes, the test is the same except you can leave T and E open. You'll be reading the raw O2 signal rather than an ECU...

Mendoza, try this: Connect the hose going to the EGR valve directly to the intake manifold. The engine should run rough or even die. If so that means your EGR valve is working. Test the VSV by pulling the line coming from it and seeing if there's vacuum. Make sure the engine is warm when you do...

Since so many things effect lambda, since you don't have test results, and since I'm unaware of the type test used you're not asking for much are you? ;). See the current thread about running rich and look at your OX signal. Generally speaking if it's switching with an average of 450 millivolts...

Hmmm. This is getting even more confusing. Until we get decent data it's going to be tough to solve. Vf with the jumper in and the engine off idle is an emulated version of the O2 signal. 0 volts means lean, not rich. Time to start looking at the raw data on OX instead of Vf. Set your meter to...

RTFM...

Ah, I see. Ok, you're off the hook for emissions. Well, you claim to be rich but your Vf shows the ECU is adding fuel. Doesn't make sense. I'd be wondering about the WB at this point. Jumper T and E. Run the engine at 2500 rpm while measuring Vf. Look for two things: 1) It switches between 0...

I'd test each component first. See the service manual. I doubt they're all bad. Could even be they work but the head or other EGR passages are clogged. In fact, since the car passed a few months back that's could well be the cause. Used VSV and modulators would probably be OK but the EGR valve...

Is that the all-in-one stuff? Truth is I haven't used Tracer Products dyes in several years. I own one of their AC leak check kits but don't often use it. I can't vouch for how well their universal dye works but since they're pretty much the leader in the biz it should be fine. I've stuck to the...

Yeah, your test results show a bad EGR system. It's certainly possible every component in it isn't working but I seriously doubt it. Unless you removed them it appears you're about to be taken for a ride.

Ugh, don't be jumping Vf to E1. I assume you really meant T and E. Don't be jumping that either when checking Vf. The Vf terminal has several modes, you need T and E to be open to use the one Grim's talking about.

Many places. Ebay for one. Search on coolant dye. The Tracer Products stuff is good. See their website for more info: http://tinyurl.com/lnppz The Interdynamics brand dyes Kragen and it's namesakes (Checker, etc) sell are junk. I use the stuff from AutoZone made by ED Enterprises or some...

From what I see you basically have a stock EFI system that's out of fuel control. That should be an easy problem to resolve using Vf and the stock O2 sensor, which I'm assuming is still connected to the ECU. I'm also assuming you're still using the stock AFM body. The setup you have for the...

Now that's entertainment...

What part of...."this boost leak tester was designed to fit over a 3inch turbo inlet. If your turbo inlet size is different than 3" you will have to purchase a different coupler that will fit over your turbo"....didn't you understand? Iirc the CT-26 is 2.75"

I found the kit lacking in execution. The fact that an OEM gasket must be compromised to fit, coarse threads on the head side, hardware below my personal standards of quality, and ending up with SAE fasteners on a metric engine for example. That said it works fine for people who're willing to...

Nope, that's all it does. It receievs input from many things true, but all it does is control the CC actuator. You could check the switch by itself but since the relay inside is passing power to the CC computer it must be good. The LED could be burned out but I doubt it. Bring 12 volts to pin...

Nope, sorry. Of all the spares I have that's one I don't. I'm sure someone else does though. Truthfully, yours would be the first case I've seen of a bad one. Based on the tests it sure sounds like it though. Good job on that btw...

The main swtch doesn't directly supply power to resume, accel, ect. If the switch is good (and it sounds like it is if you're getting power to pin 10) then the computer isn't turning the led on. It should do that no matter what the other inputs are doing. Sounds like a bad computer alright.

Pull off the motor cover. Clean, check the bearings and drive screw, holding plate, lube it up, then reassemble and test. Eyeball the check valve in the manifold too. I've never seen one that couldn't be repaired unless the windings were bad. You just have to go further inside it than many...

No green light tells me the switch is bad or not receiving power. Not to mention without it you can't do the diags. You have voltage on pin 10 of the computer when the switch is turned on right? Got a good ground on pin 13?