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Maybe you need to grind a 20 degree angle in them ;) http://tinyurl.com/yos24f

Me an expert? A vicious rumor perpetrated by my enemies. Look around here: http://tinyurl.com/9xj7o I've known Dan for years. He can be grumpy at times but you could do worse than ask him for advice. I buy all my stuff from him.

Fwiw I recently did a car (not a Supra) using CREE leds. They and Seoul Semiconductor's P4 are the latest technology. Lumileds Luxeons are old hat.

Only $20 each? For a lamp that last time I checked has a life of around 30 hours? Yikes. Here's a tip when you get the E code housings: Avoid Sylvania Silver Star capsules. Buy Osram Silver Stars, the ones used in Europe. Osram owns Sylvania but the Stars they sell for use abroad are much...

It's bad. There are reasons the owner's manual says the car should be driven soon after starting. Putting aside the fact fuel and transportation efficiency are zero (the engine is running but you're not going anywhere) the longer the engine stays in warm up enrichment with cold oil the greater...

Most won't which is why I didn't elaborate. Frankly, I'm surprised the point would be up for contention at all since were talking automotive 101 here, something taught to every first year mechanic.

^ If by warm up you mean letting it idle that's just plain wrong and does more harm than good.

As you said there is no positional feedback. That's why the valve is setup to home on engine shutdown. The homed position is full open to provided air past the throttle plate for starting. It's why cold start rpm starts off high. When rpm crosses 500 the valve begins stepping closed until it...

I'll tell you what I know even though it's been some time since I did the experiments. As long as the IDL contact is made the ISC system on my engine corrects for changes in idle no matter the source of bypass air including the screw. Opening or closing (within reason) my idle bypass screw...

Right. The IAT and barometric corrections are what allow the ECU to determine mass flow. The flow meter is only one part of that. For those really bored the guy who put the Karman in Karman Flow meter: http://tinyurl.com/24j4ol

Good deal and thanks for the thanks. We aim to please. (Well OK, not always ;))

What CRE said. Fwiw every case I've seen of this a new key fixed it but it could be too late for some locks. Same with all the other little stuff that gets ignored. Door, hatch, and hood hinges, latches, power seat, steering column, ect. You have to be anal if you want things to last.

An understanding of flow in the PCV system under boost makes it obvious they'll be some oil in the intake. That said it all depends on how much blowby is present and how often the engine is boosted. My intake tract has always been pretty much dry but the engine's blowby is minimal and I don't...

It does look to be a fueling problem. Might be a restriction ie; bad filter, pump sock, crimped return line, ect. Either flow the line into a container for one minute or, much easier, do a snap throttle pressure drop test. With the car parked disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel regulator and...

lol... It's the oil pressure sender

Sure. Ignition system problems typically result in high levels of HC. A WB can't measure HC. It only measures one thing: oxygen. A loss of spark would result in atmospheric O2 being left behind in the cylinder which would subsequently be seen by the sensor as lean. I'd suggest you pull off a...

I dunno what the problem is but in that case it would show lean.

Just put on a HG? What type? Who did the work? A glance at your other thread implies you did and from reading that I got a bad feeling....

Remove the EFI fuse for 30 seconds to clear the codes as they may be dated. 12 is associated with the cam position signal and 52 is a fault in the knock sensor system. Both can make the engine run like crap. For the 12 check the CPS wiring and pickup coils, also check the STA signal from the...

Hey, there are people out there who'll do anything for money. I wouldn't worry about it at this point. Later on if it act weirds you might consider monitoring timing along with the knock sensors. Maybe even get the right ECU and wire it in. I'd go easy about wailing on it until I was sure.