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Not only will your effort be ineffective but as we speak new legislation to toughen emissions standards for all cars is winding it way through the process. Even if it remains unchanged your suggestion would not work for several reasons. Not the least of which is this particular car has long been...

Yeah, it works. Badly. I suppose you could take an engine apart with pliers and an adjustable wrench too. I mean, for those that don't have real tools handy. Pros? Cons? Just wondering ;) If the leak is so bad he can hear it he ought ought to be able to find it with just a length of hose to his...

Depends on how big the leak is. If it's small the O2 sensor will compensate but if it's too large it can't. I'd find it if I were you. Too bad you don't have a smoke machine, it makes such jobs a pleasure. You could always inject a few psi of compressed air into the brake booster line with the...

The thermostat has a radiator side and an engine side. Coolant gages are usually on the engine side so coolant temp can be measured even when the thermostat is closed. The 2 wire EFI sensor is on the engine side for the same reason. Look when you get the chance and you'll see what I mean.

People do that all the time because they don't know better but there's a reason the factory stuff is reinforced. It's the same on all cars. It depends on how thick the hose wall is but you wouldn't be the first guy to lose brake boost because of silicone hose. The other line I mentioned looks...

Sounds like you're in the clear with the HG although it would've been better to have found a reagent test kit. You don't have any other symptoms so I think you're ok there. I have no idea what the white smoke is unless you have a coolant leak where the line runs through the intake manifold. I...

Ugh. Silicone hose on the brake booster. Not a good idea because it can collapse. Looks like the short 90 degree piece on the other end of the manifold already has. And no, that's not for your coolant gage. Coolant sender is on the engine side of the thermostat.

Not good. Is coolant disappearing? Test it the way I mentioned in my PM. I've never seen it mentioned here but as an aside if you are burning coolant and it's the silicated type expect the O2 sensor to be trash.

Thanks Colin. Hmmm, I may have a non-automotive application for this thing. At the price it'd beat doing something custom. I need around 40 amps though. I could always boost it's current capabilities....or maybe put a fan on it ;)

Sigh. I could be down at the bar/pool with my Brad Pitt look-alike first officer beating off groupies but no, instead I'm here. Someone smack me. That's the idle speed control valve. It's powered when the key is on but since it doesn't shut off when the fuel pump or circuit opening relay is...

Looking at that thing closer it appears to be PWM. I can't open the pdf for it though. How much current can it handle?

Not taking sides but if true there's some valid logic to that viewpoint ;)

Air Flow Meter. Federal law says the fuel pump must stop when the engine isn't running. It's to prevent people from becoming crispy critters. This is the job of the Circuit Opening Relay which in your car is turned on by a switch the vane/flapper hits in the AFM. So if the fuel pump can't run...

Your profile says you have a 2J. If you have a 7M the info I gave you above is valid. It's a simple circuit so it shouldn't be hard to find unless the car has been hacked. With the key on unplug the circuit opening relay. It's in the passenger foot well. If the pump stops the problem is either...

Fuel pump relay is controlled by the circuit opening relay. On a turbo car the COR is controlled by the ECU while the AFM does it on an N/A car. Why are you looking at the schematic for the 7M if you have a 2J?

Thought they were Group 27 but I forget. I'm using the next size down because I have a Priority Start unit strapped to the battery and need the room. Never had a problem but it doesn't get very cold where I live.

As I've said many times before that's simply not true. A code 22 will result in the ECU defaulting to a coolant temp of 180 F, same as a hot engine with a working coolant sensor. Timing is not effected. The engine will run lean when cold though. Now a shifted sensor, that's a different story...

Lover: How 'bout fixing the root cause rather than mickey mousing it? That said read 3p's post again. Boswer: I do that searching for an explanation when a poster has a problem that doesn't seem to make sense. Look at the dimensions of the shims she wants plus the comment "there's no...

I see. A bit more sophisticated than I gave it credit for. In fairness I didn't build the heart of mine from scratch. Used a generic proportional controller from Carlo Gavazzi, an automation firm known for compact embedded control solutions. The entire thing was encapsulated and no bigger than...

Reminds me of an analog feedback controller I once designed for a car that came with electric fans stock. No low high stuff, it's continuously variable and runs at whatever speed it takes (within range) to meet the coolant temp setpoint dialed into it. No more, no less. All under closed loop...