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The old quickie purge trick eh? It won't get rid of all the water vapor but at least removes the air. The main thing is you had the right oil in there. I know others who've "gotten away" with this too. Problem is what water was left behind has now turned to acid and is eating the system. As I...

While it's true the system is complicated it's not that hard to fathom when run in manual mode. Plus the wring diagram is readily available. Having the dash out helps when troubleshooting but it can be done in. Sounds like you need to find a better shop, preferably one that does nothing but AC...

Assuming we're talking about real rust here and not some other form of deposit buy some two part Prestone heavy duty cleaner. The powdered stuff. Or buy some oxalic acid from your local chem supply store or Ebay. It's the same chemical that's in the Prestone cleaner. Put three tablespoons in a...

You're right. The problem is mineral oil is not miscible in 134. Since the oil must circulate with the refrigerant that means no lube for the compressor which will then start shedding parts of itself from day one beginning with its seals. The key is to start with a clean system. That means a...

Ja, German engineering ;) Ok, I thought you were trying to connect an older analog PID controller to a servo. So is the Motec throttle output analog or digital? Does it have an input you can use for dealing with throttle actuator position? A quick look at the Motec site says some of their...

We're talking true servo here and not a stepper right? Since PID is analog it can't be connected to a stepper. Not that PID is suited to servo control anyway. I think what you want is is a true servo loop which is not PID in nature. At any rate you'd need a servo amplifier between the controller...

AF: I was joking with 3p. He's in the same business I used to be and works around that type of equipment all the time. Since it's a scientific business and the machinery does what it does on an atomic level it can have some pretty weird sounding names. It's not as if most people would recognize...

Huh. I'm surprised to learn they can still be bought. I dunno about these days but they used to be all show and no go. There's a VW Bug chassis under that thing. It was fun to drive because it was so light but a nightmare to work on. A real head turner though. IIRC I paid 3K and sold it for 5K...

It's a Sterling. Made by long since defunct California Component Cars. I had one in the early 80's, back before I became too embarrassed to be seen in something like that. No doors, the entire top goes up on hydraulics. Here's mine before I sold it to a guy in Nor Cal back around 1984. For all I...

I did it for someone using biometrics. Single digit fingerprint scanner. Thought it was one of the stupidest ideas he'd ever had but he's a pal and I owed him a favor.

The going rate is about $50/pound, less if you know where to look. I paid $250 for a 30 pounder. Converting to 134 is an option as long as it's done right. What Ric said is a minimum. No death kits allowed if you want the system to last more than a year or two. Same goes with Freeze 12. 3p: Two...

The fuel pump doesn't run with the key on. It only runs when cranking and after starting. Either push on the plate in the AFM or jumper B to FP in the diag block to check the pump. You should hear fuel in the rail. You can also pop the plastic cap off the pulsation damper and look for the little...

Jeez, imagine that. Assuming everything else is OK the engine should run. The problem is the main relay controls the entire EFI system and normally shuts off a few seconds after the key is turned off. Without it a bunch of things in the system are going to be on all the time even with the key...

What do you mean won't turn over? The main relay circuit has nothing to do with the engine being able to crank. One at a time: 1) Batt is power right from the battery, through the EFI fuse and 30 amp FL. If you have no power on Batt it's not a main relay problem. 2) +B and +B1 are powered...

I remember this from the fusible link. You still haven't put in a main relay? Bad news. Answer these questions: 1) What is that thing plugged into the main relay socket? A fuse? If memory serves me you'd better hope so. 2) Is it plugged into pins 7 and 8? 3) Has the car ever run with that...

Either ohm the disconnected battery positive cable to ground then look for the short or replace the 100 amp fuse with a light bulb. And old headlight will do. The bulb will be full bright but and will dim or go out when the short is found. That way you won't be going through fuses. Since the...

As I suspected. You talk the talk but can't walk the walk. You've always been one to vomit up misinformation but I've noticed of late it's happening more often than usual. I've let it slide until now. My advice is if you don't know what you're talking about you should STFU. As I've pointed out...

It's on old myth that's ineffective and won't die, used by people who don't know any better. Not to mention there are far better ways to clean injectors these days. How about a little science to back up your claim? Even though I already know the answer feel free to explain what's in ATF that you...

I needed that ;) I violated pretty much every rule I have in responding to the guy. He writes like a 10 year old, hasn't a clue about the car, makes no effort to learn on his own and doesn't have a service manual. He wants to be spoon fed. I've ignored hundreds of posts for the same reasons but...

Wtf? Yeah, that's understanding. You "let it go" real well. Everything about that post is pretty good for someone who's "not 18" You couldn't identify the oil pressure sender, don't have a TRSM in spite of owning two of these cars, and can't do basic electrical troubleshooting. You seem unable...