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Well, that doesn't answer my question but ok. Let us know how this turns out. Btw, worm clamps on oil lines are not a good idea...

Sad to see yet another case where an owner gets screwed by previous owners yanking off emissions gear and otherwise not having a clue about what they're doing. The engine is obviously not in fuel control. Short the block as MKIII said and read any codes. While it's shorted connect a voltmeter...

It means either you ran lean for short period of time *during closed loop* or your O2 sensor is dying. Based on the 21 you had before it's likely the sensor. You can check it easily enough, either directly or using Vf. Because there's a chance something else is causing true leaness I wouldn't go...

^ Agreed. Could also be the evap temp sensor or AC amplifier is not working.

Evil: I'll try again. Leaner than what? We need to have a reference point and that point is stoich. EGT peaks at stoich and falls off on either side. Note I said peak and not a particular number of degrees. The peak will be different depending on the power being made. Only when making power...

Uh, your catalyst plugged because the engine was running rich, not the other way around. A new cat will also fail unless you fix the mixture.

Ok, guess I misunderstood what you were getting at. My bad. The BPV only responds to pressure across the filter media. Otherwise it'd be in bypass much of the time. In this case the filter seems to have mechanically failed at the base plate while under normal pressure.

Iirc the bypass valve setting on that filter is around 10-15 psi, as are most filters speced for this engine, including the OEM ones. Are you suggesting all those filters are in bypass when system oil pressure is above 10-15 psi? Do you understand what a BPV does and what pressure it responds...

Lol, you are bitter aren't you? Doesn't matter if the PO did it. If you haven't fixed it it's your fault. Since it appears you can't diagnose even a simple problem like the one you're having I'll cut you some slack for it though. Fair nuff?

Class and shop? As is automotive school? If so you should have all the stuff and talent ever needed to quickly solve this. Am I missing something?

Codes? Hot or cold start? If cold it's an ISC problem, either directly or related to the coolant temp sensor.

Doesn't look like coolant to me, looks like oil. And maybe if you stopped jury-rigging things like that coolant hose you'd have less to be bitter about.

How is that correct? 12 to 12.5 is richer, not leaner. Maybe I'm reading something wrong. Best power is always richer than stoich. As for not surviving airplane engines are routinely run on the lean without problems. And that's at 75% power. WOT is a different story. My point is it's not as...

It should run OK like that unless you have a leak near the O2 sensor. Does it run better when cold? Take a look at the O2 sensor signal. You could also put a timing light on each plug and watch for the misfire or measure the temp of each exhaust runner. Try to ID whether it's one cylinder or a...

Sorry Colin, I do not. As I said they threw it in when I bought the car. Or rather I made them throw it in along with the manuals. I'll bet Jeff could come up with the P/N though.

I dunno if you can still get them but I have an OEM cover. Made them throw it in when I bought the car. Very well made and treated to be water resistant. Gray in color. I've rarely used it. They come with a carry bag, coated steel cable, and lock with keys. Says "Supra" across the hood part in...

The sensor runs the engine at stoichiometric during steady state conditions. Power increases below stoich and falls off above. Since the engine doesn't use the sensor at WOT or during transitions that's a different story and is what I think you're referring to. In that case mixture is derived...

It should run better without the sensor because the mixture will default slightly richer, closer to best power. Course, fuel economy will decrease. It's not going to do the cat any good either if you have one. Timing is not effected. Other than that a bad sensor should not cause any driveabilty...

Appears the can separated at the base. Rare but it happens. While I'm also fan of PureOnes the one thing I don't like about them is the thin gauge steel used because it lowers impact protection. Anyway, send it back and see what they say. If it was their fault they'll make good on it Fwiw...