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Check your rad cap...check your thermostat. The previous owner may have removed the thermostat...a big no, no on this engine. Listen to these guys...you are getting air into the system. Coulld be a hose, the heater core, the radiator, almost anything. Get the coolant system pressure tested...

How do you know a 2mm thickness is going to meet your specific requirements? ;) I'd stay away from it...there are a couple of brands (Cometic, Titan) that don't carry the hefty price tag an HKS or Greddy does. And they are proven on a 7M. Plus, you have no idea of the quality of the coating...

I said the "highest weight"...;) Remember, the bearing clearances are making the pressure (or at least most of it)...if a 10W-30 gave me normal oil pressure readings, that's what I would use.

The 5/10W-30 oil did not cause the rod knock...excessive rod bearing clearance did. Bearing wear is caused from the bearings just wearing out with high mileage or inadequate oil flow. Oil pressure does not = oil flow. Pressure is produced when the oil flow from the pump meets resistance...

LOL...That's kinda what happened...I was doing 5 mph over the speed limit. I think he was expecting to see some young guy behind the wheel and he saw me instead. I could tell it kinda surprised him. I wasn't really doing anything, just cruising along on the 101 loop...it was funny ;)

The German Castrol is a Group IV syn base stock oil. Just got a confirmation of that from JetJock...It's nearly all PAO. The Royal Purple is also very good...the 5W-30 should work well in your 1J.

Probably at 58 ft/lbs (stock) unless you re-torqued before you changed the HG. Yeah...I'd keep them on. Torque to 75 ft/lbs (that's max) and check again after 500 miles or so. Should be fine...use ARP from the start next time though ;)

From what I can tell on the USDM wiring diagram...yes. The problem is your car is backwards ;) LOL! You'll need to take a look at the the diagram for your car...I'm thinking it's a ground.

LOL!

Not just likely...that is his problem ;) Dude (VodkaKnight)...ISC means Idle Speed Control valve. It uses air via a stepper motor to control idle...block off it's air source (like you did) and guess what? It no workie any more. Unblock the pipe and put one of those little cone air filters...

:biglaugh: So you're gonna make damn sure there's no restriction IC wise...that will work. Which one you going to get Mike?

The reason I ask, the rest of the interior lights are routed through the integration relay #1 (located on junction box #1 - lord only know where it is on your car). The sun visor mirror light and boot light are the only exceptions. I'm suspecting a bad integration relay or the ground it goes...

Yeah...the "boot" and the mirror on the sun visor, passenger side has a light.

IAC? Do you mean the hardline (across/in front of the 3000 pipe) going to the ISC valve on the intake manifold is capped off?

Does the vanity mirror and luggage compartment lights work?

Check your Dome Fuse...it's in the fuse block in the engine bay next to the EFI fuse.

The 2.5" vs 3.0" pipe is the same thing as we were talking about earlier in this thread. What you want is flow is as close as possible to critical velocity (300 ft/sec). Lower than this and you will get lag...higher than this and you get pressure drop. The key is having a turbo that can...

I hear that they don't drink in Ireland :dunno: LOL!! ;)

When synthetics fisrt came out many years ago, there were problems with it degrading seals...that's been solved for a long time now. The thing a synthetic may do however is remove the deposits on the seals...I hope those deposits are not what's keeping your seals from leaking ;) Using a 40W...

I'm sorry for sounding short man...I've just argued this so much, that's what I was expecting. My bad. The same bearing oil film thickness requirements apply to a turbo, the difference is it's a lot hotter. Flow in this case is even more important...the oil both lubricates and keeps the...