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Sounds like the machine work is at fault to me. 85 ft/lbs is fine (not that different from the ARP 81 ft/lb spec), as long as moly was used to lube the studs. If this machinist does not have experience w/ a 7M and he used motor oil (like a lot of old schoolers will) that is not near enough...

Ok...so, you like to rev a lot. How about some specifics: - When your block/head was decked, was the RA spec (smoothness) 30 RA or less? - How much material was removed from the block and head? What thickness HKS MHG did you use? - Did you torque your ARP hardware to spec? 75 ft/lbs...

That kind of customer service is not service at all. :3d_frown: I'll contrast that to my experience with FAL Fans...I had one of their fan controllers die on me, shutting the car down until it was fixed. I called them, the rep I spoke with offered immediately to replace it. I told him my...

You know what you're doing Yellow...don't forget to read each step of the TRSM so you don't miss something. And measure everything twice! Hope it goes well for ya ;)

Start turning wrenches and let us know how it turns out ;)

Don't use FIPG on the HG...IMO, once you use a composite HG, even for a few minutes, it's toast as far as re-using it. If you insist on reusing the HG you pulled, use a bit of the Permatex copper sealer that comes in the can and apply it to the area that pealed. In this case, I would coat...

I feel your pain...Ross simply left a ring out completely when I ordered mine. Figured it out the same way you did :3d_frown:

Check the lines coming off the hard line going around the block in the driver's side. There's a small line that routes up to the throttle body and ISC valve, then returns to a nipple on the lower intake manifold (between the #1 & #2 runners I think). These lines can leak making it very...

Excellent oil...PAO/ester base stock...a "boutique" Group IV/V blend with a very good additive pack. I just don't like their marketing technique...and the cost associated with it. I'm a 100% sure this was a typo ;) He meant to say "30"

Try the German Castrol...it's actually closer to a 40W in viscosity. If it's giving you normal oil pressures, you're good to go. Also, keep this in mind...oil does not thicken when it gets hot. It just thickens less when it gets cold...the lower number gives that info. So don't think a 0W...

10W-40 is ok if you have a fairly high mileage motor...don't go any heavier. If you can get a 5W-40, that would be better. IMO, Redline is a better oil than Royal Purple due to the additive pack. The German Castrol is the best "bang for the buck"; it only comes in a 0W-30...it would work...

With a true PAO/POE based Group IV/V synthetic (like Royal Purple), you can go 8,000 miles easy. If you do oil analysis every 3-5,000 miles and the analysis is good (no gasoline/coolant contamination and no excessive wear metals)...you can run it 15,000 miles. Change your filter (Wix is good)...

The gauge should go to zero without the sensor connected...it's the same as if the key is in the off position.

No...the power source is not common. The fuel pump gets power from the fuel pump control relay...you will have to trace on the wiring diagram back to the source from there. The fuel sending unit gets power from the gauge fuse.

The oil pressure gauge should go to zero with no oil pressure (ignition on - engine off) or if there is no ignition power (key in off position). The tach will not register rpm until it receives an IG- signal from the igniter...that does not happen until the coil packs actually fire. That is...

Never seen a complete combo, but here's everything you're looking for at SupraSport: http://www.suprasport.com/Fuel_c_61-1.html

Do you know what part of the TPS...the IDL signal? And no code 51? The reason I ask is my car idles at 550 rpm...can't find the reason why. But my TPS throws a code 51 when the pedal is depress right away.

Been using MSD wires with no problem. They don't like the Autolite 3923 plugs though...the plug is 1/8" shorter than stock and the MSD wires do not make a good contact.

Electric Fans - Mine work well, but I also live in Phoenix where the more constant flow is more important...especially in city driving. Downside is if the fans or the fan controller fails...stops you dead in your tracks. I have one of my FAL dual fans wired to the old aux fan wiring, the other...

Yep...the JDM sensor can blow your gauge. If the other gauges are working, your gauge fuse is likely good (check it anyway). Need another oil pressure gauge...the '87-88 is a little different in appearance from the '89+.