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Lighter weight oils will help fuel economy...not a huge difference, but with gas prices the way they are every little bit helps. Here's an interesting article concerning Toyota's take on it: http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article000463014.cfm?x=b5JKv2G,b38lLn1r Royal Purple is a good...

Re-torque your stock head bolts to 75 ft/lbs in two passes (70 then 75) using the TRSM pattern and you'll be fine. I'd run the car for a couple of weeks and re-check the torque just to be on the safe side. I've been looking into this and can't find a good reason not to re-use the stock head...

Did you read this thread? Because if you did, you're not getting it...a 50W multigrade oil does not resist breakdown due to heat oxidation better than a 30W multigrade. It's the formulation of the oil and the base stock that's what's counts in that department...you want a Group IV or V oil if...

Did you hone the cylinders and replace the rings? The rings also have to be gapped. Trust me, once the rings seat in the cylinder (regardless of mileage) they will not seat properly again if removed. The black RTV should be fine for the timing plate...copper RTV is better due to the heat...

Ok...a couple of things. I assume you are going to leave this motor NA...is that correct? You will need to have the block cylinders honed at minimum and new rings for the pistons. Otherwise, you will burn enough oil to look like you're spraying mosquitoes. You should check the block and...

A lot of info out there on oil Steven...be careful or you'll turn into an oil geek. Next thing you know, you'll be talking about bypass filtration, oil analysis, and extended drain intervals...LOL ;) I am very interested in seeing if Exxon pulled a "Castrol" and switched to a Group III base...

Didn't say Royal Purple was a bad oil man...I said IMO the add pack in Redline was better. You might want to rethink running a 50W...the issue is not oil pressure, it's flow through your bearings. But, as I've said before...it's your motor...you can abuse it any way you wish...

Or you can disconnect the igniter and turn the motor over for a minute ;) If everything is lubed properly during assembly, there should be no problem. Phoenix - I need some more info on exactly what you're doing for this re-build...I read your re-build thread and have a few questions: -...

1 lb...BFD ;) I just read it off my ARP spec sheet :biglaugh:

Not necessary.

Use the ARP spec for studs...81 ft/lbs using the supplied moly for lube.

The JDM harness is a lot shorter...JDM cars are right hand drive...the ECU is on the left side of the car ;) The JDM ECU is compatable with USDM Supras, except for the EGR...I ran one for a while. Unless you can figure out a way to mount the ECU on the left (or lengthen the harness), you...

If you're going to spend the $$$....IMO the additive pack is better in Redline (a 100% ester base stock). Get the 5W-40 if a 40W is what you want to use.

I'm sorry to hear that man...that pretty much confirms a BHG...looks like Andy was right. DO NOT run the motor any more! Coolant in the oil can destroy the bearings...you don't want to add rod knock to your problems! A MHG would be the best, but that would require pulling the motor to...

You would need some sort of spacer to mount the fan at the stock depth...otherwise, you will greatly reduce it's efficiency. The silicone fluid in the clutch is used to drive the fan and cool the engine at lower engine speeds. As RPM increases the drive fluid allows the fan clutch to slip...

Steven - It looks like you have a good handle on lubricants...it is a lot to plow through and just might change your mind about using a 50W oil. Here's something to consider....take a look at this chart: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/oildatasheets.html Lets compare viscosity at 40 deg C and...

:3d_frown: Sigh...I really wish the 50W oil myth would die. Steven I've went over this many times here on SM...do some more research and you would find all the data you can digest. 5W-50 is better than 20W-50, but any 50W is not the best oil for a tight tolerance motor like the 7M...it...

From post #11: Especially for the temp range you specified. You want the oil to flow as well as possible on engine start...that's where the 0W will come into play. Once the motor gets to operating temp (100 deg C), the oil will behave as a 30W. Should be just what you need.

A 0W-30...the German Castrol I talked about earlier (post #5) would be perfect.

You asked this already in the General section...the same question in multiple sections is a no, no.