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The easy, no-brainer way...replace all the vacuum hoses you can get to. There's some nice silicone hose kits out there...or just a roll of rubber line like the ones you got (same size), a pair of scissors and go at it. Rubber vac line is pretty cheap...you'll spend more time trying to find...

The 1st pic is the vacuum pump for the cruise control actuator; the 2nd pic is the heater control valve...it allows hot coolant into the core when you want heat. You might have a vac line clogged up...check them for leaks/free flow. You could also try tapping in closer to the nipple on the...

Pretty sure ARP has them...hold on to your wallet though ;)

Only if it had a sexy female voice And does a HUD come with it too...LOL ;)

And how much you BS with your buddy standing there watching you ;)

There is...it's inside the alternator.

Power on stock internals? Until it blows up...Mike just illustrated that. Will some guys make and maintain that kind of power on the stock rods? Sure they will...maybe you got your hands on the rods that were a little stronger than the rest. That brings me to my point. If you are building a...

Is that as rare as obsecureium? :biglaugh: Not from heat...if you are unlucky enough to get a defective probe...well, not much you can do about that ;)

The 7M firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4...the theory of tapping into the #1 runner based on firing order will give you a reading measured in milliseconds ahead of the other cylinders. There's not an automotive EGT gauge on the market able of reacting that fast. If you're going to tap in a runner...

Wolfie - Are you going to make any of the front side marker lights in the USDM flat style?

:runaway:

;)

You can use nipples/clamps on all of the above...use good clamps ;) Four places for the heater...passenger firewall for the heater core feed, back of the head (other end of feed hose), drivers firewall for the heater return, and fitting on drivers side hard line around the block (other end...

Might want to reconsider the location of your boost gauge input. Placing it on the intake manifold shows how much psi is actually flowing into the cylinders. Plus you can read vacuum at that location as well...useful for figuring out other issues.

Like I said, locating the probe on the #6 exhaust manifold runner is fine, it's just reading one cylinder. Most people put it there or the #5 runner because it's easier to get to without removing the manifold. If there's a reason the #6 cylinder would lean out vs the rest, I'd like to hear...

If you have good fuel pressure, the #6 cylinder is no more likely to lean out than the rest ;) That location is fine, but be aware you are reading EGT off of one cylinder...not a big deal really. The best location IMO is on the turbine snail...the bottom, just past the flange to exhaust...

You're welcome ;) The EGR cooler can also leak causing the same clicking sound...it's not as pronounced as a leaking exhaust manifold though.

That's just about right...when boosting you'll see it go to the 750 deg C range. 900 deg C is the limit in my book. Where did you install the probe at?

Most of the time it's the gasket...the nuts can loosen up (especially at the #6 & # 5 runners) and cause the leak. It's pretty common for the head exhaust studs to strip...the torque spec is only 29 ft/lbs for that reason. Doesn't do a lot for keeping the manifold clamped down. IMO, it's...

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