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Brad - Your correct in one thing : chloroparaffin has excellent lubricating properties...however, it breaks down under high temperature (like those in an automotive engine). And the by-product of this breakdown is hydrochloric acid...that's not skepticism...that's simple chemistry. That's fine...

Here's some info on Bi-Tron from the oil forum I frequent...these guys are into oil in a big way. I'll make comments on each link: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB5&Number=295779&Searchpage=1&Main=295779&Words=Bi-Tron&topic=&Search=true#Post295779 This...

Instead of hi-jacking Phoenix's thread, I thought I would start a new one on the attributes of oil additives...specifically Bi-Tron. Here's how this started...since I couldn't find a recent thread to debate Bi-Tron, I started this one. Peaked my interest ;) The reply:

I used it and the Ford LSD friction modifier additive on my previous 3.73 differential. It worked well in a high milage LSD. I'm using Redline 75/90 now in my 3.90 re-built differential (TRD LSD); it already contains friction modifier. It too is a very good LSD oil.

That theory is not worth the effort...and it won't make any difference as far as keeping the engine cooler. Not to mention you'll have no heat. If your heater core was leaking I could see the point in removing it. In fact, you are reducing the total capacity of the system by removing the...

Jon - read this post...you have a high idle problem: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=876

Yep...and I tried to help you man. It's kinda hard to help when you won't do the things that were suggested...earlier in this thread and in other threads. You're going to have to dig some info out of the TRSM yourself...the guys on this forum are only willing to spoon feed you so much...

Read this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32182 (a thread search would have brought up near the top of the list) ;)

A Cometic...1.6mm

That's about right ;)

I got some stainless 12 nuts w/ washers for the stock 10mm studs from ARP when I helicoiled mine...nuts were $5 and the washers were $1.50 each! They do hold really good though ;)

Depends on how much you want to spend and what your HP goal is. In all cases, use ARP hardware on a MHG. If you're going for moderate HP, use a bead type...they work well. The Cometic is cheaper and, as mentioned above, you can get away with a little higher RA spec. If you plan on...

So (since you didn't answer the questions), I assume you did not follow the TRSM guidance concerning clearances. And you actually expected it to run correctly? Come on man...if you expect this thing to run, you gotta do it right. Doing the rush, rush...get it done...taking shorcuts method of...

Ok...I remember you installed a set of valves on the intake side....is the sound you're hearing coming from the intake side? Did you: - Inspect the lifter oil clearances? - Check each lifter for rotation? - Check each spring for proper free length? - Check the camshaft oil clearances...

+1 Man...you speak the truth ;)

Nash - Might not be the most accurate, but I weighed the ATI and the stock dampener on a postal scale myself ;) The ATI is significantly lighter.

Don't know the page off hand. Valve train noise is at 1/2 speed of the motor...drive train noise (rods, crank, etc) is 1:1 with rpm. Get a timing light and hook it up...shine the light at the pulley. If the noise is in sync with the light, it's the valve train....if it's twice the speed of...

The ATI weights 6.5 lbs (w/ the AC pulley)...the stock dampener weights 11 lbs. The AC pulley is aluminum...just guessing, it would be about 1 lb lighter without it.

More trouble than it's worth...especially when you can get a NEW one from ATI at this price. The ATI is a tight fit (PITA to install), but it spins smooth as silk on my motor.

Man - you're gonna have to pull the valve covers and take a look...make sure there's not any crap under the cams or shims. Check the shim clearances per the TRSM.