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Keep in mind the head's primary method of thermal dispersion is by using coolant...not oil. That's the reason for the passages inside ;) For it to warp, there needs to be other forces at play...over torqued head bolts, unevenly torqued head bolts, etc. 250 deg F is not going to affect the...

RA - Roughness Average. It's expressed in units of height. In English measurement, RA is typically expressed in "millionths of an inch". In the metric system, RA is typically expressed as "millionths of a meter"..."micrometers" or "microns".

That is actually pretty good for a machine shop ;) I would lap it or have them do it...shouldn't take much...36 RA is darn close. You would need a 1.7mm MHG to keep the stock compression. Your 2mm Stopper should be fine...you will lose a small amount of cylinder compression, but you can...

^^^ Beat me to it ;)

The HKS Stopper requires a surface RA of 30 at minimum...most machine shops cannot achieve that level of smoothness. You took a total of .3mm off each...what thickness is is the Stopper MHG?

The lower intake manifold is actually the same for the Turbo and NA. The seal they are referring to is part of the lower intake manifold to head gasket....it's a raised ring of green viton I believe. It lines up with the nipple below the #2 runner and provides coolant to the ISC valve/TB loop...

Donny speaks the truth ;) A lot of guys will put washers in the relief valve to increase oil pressure...that's fine, but more is not better. I did it to mine...only 1.5mm worth. That gives me 10 psi at hot idle and just over 40 psi at cruise. It's perfect with the 0W-30 I'm running...

Yep, they are the stock length...work great. Cost a lot less than iridiums too. I'll be using nothing but NGK's from now on ;)

If I had more $$$ than I had sense, I'd try to get that car...Woon has a lot of time and cash tied up in it. Tone it down a bit, take off any turbo badges, and let some of these pussies with the exotics up where I live have a good look at my tail lights ;)

Donny just posted what I was thinking...you really don't have a clue about how motor oil works dude. And until you take the time to learn, you might as well pour 90W in there...that will give you plenty of pressure ;)

I've seen this car in person...Ryan Woon knows what he's doing ;) You can drive this beast on the street...didn't get to see the babes though...lol. It would have to lose the graphics...

Yep...few other things too: - Check Engine light - ABS Warning light & ABS computer - Tail Light Warning & Sensor - Selt Belt Warning - Back-up Lights - Rear Window Defogger - Main Power Relay (closes the relay - seats, windows) - Integration Relay #1 (closes the relay - door courtesy...

Running a 20W-50 isn't going to blow your motor...but, you're not doing your engine any favors either. That oil reduces flow to your bearings, oil cooler, and oil filter. It's just simple physics ;)

Modern VI improvers are high molecular weight polymers that remain inert at low temperatures. As oil is heated, they expand to help the oil maintain its viscosity. You are correct, the bigger the difference between the cold oil and the hot oil viscosity, the more volume of viscosity modifiers...

Turbo motors (like yours) have an AFM just behind the air intake filter and goes to the turbo. There is no mass air sensor. What exactly and where is it located the part you are calling a "mass air sensor checking filter"?

Yep - Gauge fuse. Your fuel gauge isn't working either...it freezes in place w/ no power. Feel lucky you don't have an auto tranny...you would lose the OD as well ;)

Nice try Brad, but I believe I started this thread ;) Like I said, I am suspicious that Bi-Tron contains chloroparaffin. Since you cannot (or will not) provide it's chemical composition, how can we know otherwise. That chemical would provide excellent lubricating properties...it is one of...

Coolant has to be going somewhere ;) - Are you venting coolant out of the overflow bottle? - Any puddles under the car? - Wet spot on the passenger inside floor? - Check your oil for that "milk shake" look in the cap If your radiator has a cold spot, it's not doing it's job (like...

Check the gauge fuse under the drivers side kick panel....her fuel gauge shouldn't be working as well though :icon_conf

Got a PLX...works great. The AEM is good too. Both have narrow band outputs if you want to wire into the ECU and completely eliminate the stock O2.